JVM7195DK2WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figured number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.

If confused just go to YouTube. They can show you how to fix anything. Very simple replacement for both charcoal and regular filter. A snap.

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

Unscrewed bottom panel, then unscrewed light socket, then replaced with new socket and bulb. Reattached socket and panel.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

The halogen light bulb took a little skill. The prongs were a little difficult to maneuver into place.

Odered replacement

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

My microwave is built in above the stove which provides lighting and fans for my stove. The glass lens cover for the lighting was cracked in several places and the light bulbs had burned out. I taped the glass lens for removal so it didn't break apart due to the cracks Removed the one screw. .Both light bulbs broke away from the base sockets as I tried to unscrew them. I used electrical tape wrapping in reverse on a lightbulb (socket end) so it was sticky for a grip on the base, shoved it in the sockets and was unable to unscrew the broke off bases. So it was very successful and no repair man was needed.

.Thank You Dan

I first watched a video and that helped a little. So I ordered a new main board and received it in a couple short days. I then took the front of the microwave off and pulled out the main board without disconnecting anything. I then took a picture of the main board with all the wires attached. This is so I could put them back in the correct place. (This was my secret for an easy quick assembly) It is hard to attach a wire in the wrong spot because it won’t fit, however, using your picture as a guide it is so easy , fast, and simple. The only wire needing special attention is the ribbon wire. The retainer to the ribbon wire has a retainer bar and you only need to pinch both ends and pull it up so ever slightly, just enough to remove the ribbon. To install the ribbon on the new main board do the same, pull up the retainer bar so ever slightly and push in the ribbon and then push down on the retainer bar until it clicks in place. If you try to remove the retainer bar it will break. I also recommend taking out the old main board and then use your photo picture to put it back together just for a drill. It will take seconds. Once that works successfully do the same with the new board and that is all to it. Very simple.