JVM2071BH001 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

I first read the previously posted directions from other customers that were sent with my part order confirmation, which were all very helpful. Then, I basically used a screw driver to unscrew the screw holding the lens cover in place - be careful as it is a very tiny screw and it can easily fall behind your oven. You might want to place a large piece of cardboard over the space between oven and wall, as I did, so that you don't lose the screw in case it falls. Next I pried open the prongs, carefully slid out the cracked lens, and slid the new lens in place, pushed back the prongs and put the screw back in. I found that it was easier to use my fingers to first place and tighten the screw because it is very small and will keep falling out of place if you try to just use the screwdriver. Good luck!

Took out the door to be able to replace the door latch. After removing the plastic cover it was challenging to remove the broken latch (unlike other models this has two separate latches individually controlled by spring. The pin holding the latch was impossible to take out and I figured I need to take out inner layer of the door frame (metal part) to remove it. But the frame was stuck and did not come out. I found no reference how to do it on internet and then with another pair of hand pulled outwards while simultaneously pulling upward. Was finally about to pull just enough and replace the latch and push the metal frame to fit back.

I placed the glasstop on the sprocket

unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.

replaced existing ancillary parts and installed vent. Very easy repair and I saved 35% on part from manufacturer msrp.

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

llation

Removed three screws from the top front cover and slide it out and following I removed the touch panel and the housing that holds the switches and replaced the bad one.

Replaced with new part

Very easy replacement by taking off the plastic trim and than the front portion of the door. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the door handle. Both pieces just snap off from clips. Next pull the spring off the latch and slide the pin that secures the latch to the door. Install everything by reversing your procedures when taking apart completing the repair.

remove two screws bend out flaps remove broken glass install new glas bend flaps back to hold glass install two screws. Done.

however, I had hit the cook button and the microwave did not have an item to cook inside. Resulted in shattering the glass tray and meting the plastic lid sitting inside which was fused to the cooking tray. Carefully wrapped up the shattered tray and melted lid in heavy paper, deposited it into the garbage, then happily placed my new E.O.M. glass cooking tray into my G.E. Profile microwave. Thank you .

This particular model has 2 hooks that are separate.

1. Remove the plastic trim on the inside of the door. Use a spatula and be care not to break any of the snapping parts. It will come apart.
2. There will be a metal trim that needs to be removed in order to get to the "screw" or "rod" that holds the hook in place.
3. All around the metal trim, there are plastic snaps. Use a screw driver to release the snaps from the metal trim.
4. My metal trim did not want to fully be removed... I was able to release the side where the hooks were and the bottom snaps.
5. Use the needle nose pliers to remove the spring. I found it easier to remove the bottom part of the spring to free the hook.
6. I had to pull on the metal trim enough to get the rod out of the hook so the hook could be removed. Very difficult with one person, but I got it done.
7. Put the spring in the new hook before you install it.
8. Put the rod back in, then the hook, then through the right hole.
9. Attach the bottom of the spring back to the lower hole.
10. Snap the metal trim back onto the microwave door.
11. Snap the plastic trim back onto the door.
12. Move the hooks up and down and feel there is tension. This should probably be done after Step 9.
13. Breathe!!!!

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.