JVM1440BD003 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Unpugged microwave. Removed the screws on the bottom cover of the micorwave. Unpugged drive motor and removed two screws from drive motor. Installed new motor and replaced the bottom cover, plugged in microwave . . . presto!

Installation was just as easy as numerous other customers indicated. Also, your service was as great as many other customers indicted . . . part was recieved in 2 business days. Thank you for great service and website.

Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...

took a screw driver and pride off plastic on inside of door. be carfule not to break it. only one of two screws that go into handle were visable. had to drill a hole in metal braket to get at second screw. you can just bend the metal braket back inorder to use drill. bend it back when done. took off handle and replaced it. snapped plastic piece I took off back in place and finished.
ge told me i needed to replace whole door. which they nolonger stock and I could not find a whole door for my model on web. found handlw on this website and did it my self

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .

Un screwed the cover but when i tried to remove the bulb it was broken at the base. I disconnected the power and used neddle nosed pliers to remove the base

I followed the exact details of one of your customers, removing the inner plate of the door, replacing the screws
that were left inside, into the new handle. I was finished in a few minutes and thank the earlier pioneer for his help.
I am a 75-year old grandmother and the help gave me the courage to try it. Very proud of myself.

Ordered a replacement grill, replaced the optional charcoal filter at the same time. Took just a little effort to get the alignment tabs in place--required just a little more elbow grease than you'd think, then replaced the two screws.

Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.

Remove top air grate via 2-screws. Remove metal top panel behind grate that's above bulb via 1-screw. Bulb is exposed and can be un-screwed. DONE

I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!

I removed the two screws that were still attached to the microwave. With the new grill, I replaced the screws and the problem was resolved.

I replaced old tray with new. Received replacement part in two days. I was surprised at the quick response time. The part ordered was right the first time.

Simply ordered a replacement part that was quickly and coveniently mailed to my home.

Phillips screws on bottom panel allowed me to install new socket and put electric connection back. Secured bottom panel and that was it.