JVM1650CH04 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Took the screw out of the glass door holder, bent the clips up and removed the broken glass. While this was open chenged the light bulbs as well. Put new glass in bent the holding clips down and closed the doors and installed the screws again. So nice to have good light again and also new glass in them. Never noticed they were broken before.

BY THE WAY PARTS SELECT IS VERY PROMPT AND I RECEIVED MY PARTS IN ONE DAY AFTER THEY SHIPPED. SHIPPED ON MONDAY GOT THEM TUESDAY, thanks parts select for your promtness and speedy work for shipment.

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

Remove screws holding bottom cover. Cover then swings down allowing access to the receptacles. Receptacles have a single screw attaching them to the appliance with a simple electrical plug supplying power. Very easy.

Unplugged the stirrer motor and the noise stopped. Therefore, replaced the stirrer motor.

Ordered and replaced turntable coupler. Still didn't work.
Ordered turntable motor. Left bottom of microwave open for motor to arrive since the parts are shipped so quickly. Sure nuff parts arrived 3 days later, replaced and walla walla fixed in 10 minutes. Simple, simple.

Lower base of the microwave, about 6 screws,
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.

I open the door to access the back panel. I used a screwdriver(flat) to unsnap the inside door frame cover. Next, the removal of 2 philips screws near the door spring locks to allow the front frame removal. Unsnap the front frame from the door and remove. Next, remove 2 philips screws and remove the handle. Install the handle to the new frame and in reverse order, reinstall the new outer frame. Simple.

I removed the broken turntable coupling and popped on the new one. Simple as that. It was a 2-minute job.

Must remove 5 screws in bottom of Microwave, which is hinged to the unit. Then simply remove the old lamp holders, and replace with replacements. Uses only a single screw for each lamp.

I followed the instructions provided by others on-line who had done a similar repair. I removed a handful of screws, disconnected the wires from the old drive motor and connected them to the new drive, replaced the screws that held the drive motor in place, and those that held the bottom housing in place, and I was done. Literally took less than 10 minutes. If I had known earlier how easy it was, the microwave would have been fixed much earlier.

First, potatoe burned up in microwave. Microwave
was dead. Took off cover and found maintaince repair pamphlet in envelope. Schematic showed one shot thermostat for fire. Ordered thermostat from you and installed it. Works fine.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

I simply removed the broken coupler and snapped the replacement part into place, being careful to line up the slot on the new coupler. Just a note: the troubleshooter guide on the website was a great help in determining how to fix the problem. The comment section let me know this a simple fix anyone could do.

First I removed the screws that were underneath the microwave. Once I did that I disconnected the wires to the bulbs and removed the screws that were attached to the holder lamp. replaced the parts and reversed the process. It went really smooth.

The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).