JNM1541DP2CC General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Unplug appliance, Staring from the rear sides, remove the four side screws. Remove the left and right front screws and finally the front center screw. The bottom panel hinges down toward the rear . Unplug the input wires from the sockets . Unscrew the two retainer screws (one each) and pull the sockets out of the panel. Note that the retainer screws are shouldered. The shoulder fits through the elongated slot in the socket. Screw the bulb into the socket and insert through the mounting hole. Insert and tighten the mounting screws. Note that the sockets may appear to be a bit loose. That's OK because of the shouldered screw. Don't over tighten or you risk stripping the threads of the panel. Plug in the input sockets and install the panel screws in the reverse order of removal. Plug the appliance in and test the bulbs.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Very easy to replace the light socket. Unscrew screws under microwave to lower the base. remove screw at rear of light socket. Unplug power to socket. Plug wire into new socket. Replace new socket into base and replace serew. Hold base plate up to microwave and replace all screws. Do yourself a favor, if replacing one of the lights, go ahead and do both. Shipping cost is the same for 1 or 2 bulb sockets.

Unplugged microwave before doing anything.Removed 6 screws holding the bottom of the microwave on. Disconnected 1 wire connector connecting the light sockets.Removed 1 screw on each socket to remove and install new socket. Reconnect the 1 wire connector and reinstall the 6 screws holding the bottom of the microwave on. Removed 1 screw holding the glass lens in place on each light and installed 1 bulb in each and reinstall 1 screw in each lens. Replug power cord. DONE !!

Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.

Removed 5 screws from the bottom of the over the range microwave to expose the light sockets. Removed the 1 screw holding the socket, disconnected the wires. Attached the wires to the new socket, Put in the bulb, reattached it with the screw. Repeated on the other light... It took about 20 minutes and now the lights work just like they should :)

After discovering Parts Select website and reading the experiences and installation instructions of others with similar experiences, it gave me the confidence to give it a try. I order the parts, and in a few days, they arrived. I did the following, as read from others: 1. unscrewed the 5 screws on bottom panel of microwave. 2. Had wife hold panel while I unscrewed the 1 screw holding the lamp socket 3. Pulled lamp socket out of hole 4. Used needle nose pliers to pull wiring from old lamp socket 5. plugged the two wires into new lamp socket 6. removed old bulbs (which would have been a nightmare to do by just dropping down the bulb cover - bulb had been factored glued to lamp socket and even after I removed the glue, the bulb still broke when trying to remove the bulb - had to use needle nose pliers to unscrew the base of the broken bulb) 7. placed lamp socket with new bulb back into its slot and screwed the one screw holding the lamp socket back 8. screwed back in the 5 screws that held the bottom panel.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.

Followed suggestion by previous poster to remove bottom panel...facilitated process well

I tried to replace a light bulb over the cook stove without turning off the power supply. The light socket had deteriorated and the bulb base shorted out on the microwave frame. I ordered new sockets and bulbs. Replacing them was s simple matter with the power off. However, there was still no lights working with the power on. I pulled to cover off on top of the microwave (two screws) and checked the fuse. Continuity test showed it to be ok. Next I pulled the cover off the control panel and pulled out the mother board. On the back side I noticed two burnt pins. I applied solder with a solder gun to replace the burnt off solder. I put it all back together and it works fine.

Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.

I thought I could just unscrew the bulbs in the SpacemakerXL Microwave Oven. The bulbs melted into the bulb socket so every attempt to unscrew the bulb with pliers just broke the socket. So I took out the few screws holding up the bottom panel(with the bulbs and filters). I unplugged the electrical connection and took out the sockets but I used PAM Cooking oil on the electrical connections plugging into the sockets to avoid pulling the wire holders from the connection. Replacing both bulbs and the sockets at the same time makes sense since the heat from the stove melts the bulbs in the socket.

every thing is working, but no hot

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.

Because the microwave is old and the bulbs, I believe, had never been changed I carefully tried to unscrew the bulb. However, when I went to unscrew the bulbs the end of the bulb broke off and remained in the socket. I used a few different tools then remembered that sometimes a raw potatoe can be used to unscrew the remainder of the bulb, but to no avail. Finally had to unscrew the whole underside of the microwave to remove the broken bulb. May I suggest that you have the socket face away from the wall to screw in the bulb instead of the socket pointing toward the wall. You need to know yoga just to manuver the bulb into the socket.