JES1451DS1WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Multimeter checked/confirmed switches, sensors, and fuse first. All good. High power diode was bad - Replaced. Still no heat but now loud "MMMMM" noise when running. This means either the capacitor is also bad and/or magnetron.

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

I used a phillips screw driver and a special type bit to undo the screws from the cabinet and found the light bulb and took the old one out and put the new one in and put it back together.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

Removed outer cover, Cash with for Phillips screws as I recall, Then remove six or eight safety screws with Phillips special bit. Pulled bulb, cover back, removed, and replace bulb, back together all set

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

Googled problem, removed diode, checked with meter and it was open, ordered new diode, checked new diode and it read open, installed. Any way, it didn't work. Went and bought new microwave!!

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Remove the top of the microwave, regular phillips screws on sides, torque screws on back. Lift up back and slide off cover. Light bulb socket is easily detached and bulb unplugged and replaced. Slide cover from back lifted slightly so lip will slide into front of microwave, than replace screws. Be sure to unplug microwave before you start.

Cut the wire connection of access door on the bottom of the oven. Once access door was removed, I took the screw holding the drive motor in place, removed the wire connector and taped the connection to oven so that it did not drop into the bottom of the oven pulled motor out. Put new motor in, put connector back on motor secured the motor with the scre, put access door back in place put roller guide on the drive motor from inside of the oven and put plate on roller and turned it on for a test. it worked.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

AFter I put the roller guide and glass cooking tray inside the microwave it still didn't spin. After check with the video, I was warned not to try to replace the motor which spins the tray, that there was a chance of electrical shock. I took the oven to my repair place and they made the repairs.

Replace the fuses

First I took out the screws holding the sides and back to the microwave. I discovered that the rotissereie motor was also damaged, but had an old GE microwave that had quit working-took out motor from other GE(motor was the same), installed motor in microwave, lined up pin to roller assy. and that was it!