PVM2070DM3WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions
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- Customer:
- robert from salmon, ID
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lens Was Not Sized To Fit And Was Left Extremely Sharp
Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.
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- Customer:
- Susan from VAIL, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10213
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
needed light bulb
The halogen light bulb took a little skill. The prongs were a little difficult to maneuver into place.
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When door opened, microwave would turn on
Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.
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The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
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- Customer:
- Ronald from PONCA CITY, OK
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10928
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
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- Customer:
- Rick from Muncie, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB24X829
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
microwave Quit working but lights worked
llation
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Still runs even the door was open
Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward
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- Customer:
- regan from oxford, MS
- Parts Used:
- WB49X10063
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken glass turntable
I placed the glasstop on the sprocket
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- Customer:
- KAREN from MANSFIELD, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
light lens broke a couple of years ago
unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.
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- Customer:
- Tommy from Santa clarita, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Previoous glass lens was broken
This repair was easy and could be done by anyone. If you undertake to do this replacement, remember to slowly bend the medal tabs back that hold the lens. Handled roughly these tabs could break off.
This repair can be don in under 5 minutes, easily !!
This repair can be don in under 5 minutes, easily !!
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- Customer:
- Norman from Voorheesville, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken lens
remove two screws bend out flaps remove broken glass install new glas bend flaps back to hold glass install two screws. Done.
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- Customer:
- CHARLES B. from CLARKSVILLE, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB24X829
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Smelling and smoking. Than stop.
I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.
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- Customer:
- Marion from GILBERTSVILLE, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Glass light lens cover was cracked
I first read the previously posted directions from other customers that were sent with my part order confirmation, which were all very helpful. Then, I basically used a screw driver to unscrew the screw holding the lens cover in place - be careful as it is a very tiny screw and it can easily fall behind your oven. You might want to place a large piece of cardboard over the space between oven and wall, as I did, so that you don't lose the screw in case it falls. Next I pried open the prongs, carefully slid out the cracked lens, and slid the new lens in place, pushed back the prongs and put the screw back in. I found that it was easier to use my fingers to first place and tighten the screw because it is very small and will keep falling out of place if you try to just use the screwdriver. Good luck!
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- Customer:
- janice from GOLD RIVER, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB49X10063
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
I thought I had pushed the timer button for 20 minutes duration period,
however, I had hit the cook button and the microwave did not have an item to cook inside. Resulted in shattering the glass tray and meting the plastic lid sitting inside which was fused to the cooking tray. Carefully wrapped up the shattered tray and melted lid in heavy paper, deposited it into the garbage, then happily placed my new E.O.M. glass cooking tray into my G.E. Profile microwave. Thank you .
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- Customer:
- Mark from FORT COLLINS, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10928, WB24X829
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Microwave would run when door was opened, tripped breaker, wouldn't run at times, door opening and close would help/hurt operation
The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.
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