PVM1870DM3BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

I replaced the cover just fine but i think a sensor went bad

Once we figued out that you had to remove the panel underneath the microwave, pull down the turntable motor part and then insert to coupler it went really fast. Through trial and error we figured it out, but should have checked for installation instructions on the internet. Repair time would have been less than 15 minutes.

bought a fuse but that didn't solve the problem. Guess I need a new microwave

removed the bottom of the microwave and removed the motor and replaced the coupler and reassembled. Easy repair.

My son fixed it in less than five minutes! easy!

Microwave would not turn on--No lights--Nothing worked 1. Removed screws from back and side and pull off microwave cover. Be careful! There HIGH voltage back there due to a large capacitor that stores power. This capacitor is charged up even with Microwave unplugged. I checked the fuse located on top back part of Microwave. A lot of the time this is the problem but this time the fuse was good. I used an Ohm meter to check to see if there was an open circuit in one of the Thermostats. There are two of them in the Microwave. The Thermostats are about the size of a dime. One is located on the top right side and the other is on the top left side. One of them was bad. I ordered a new Thermostat. It arrived in just 2 days. I installed it and the Microwave was repaired and working great.

replacement door recommended $308.00 ! said no parts available ! I looked online and found one for $ 35.00 ! then i found your site and bought it for $3.00 !!! It came very fast. We looked up schematics on your site and looked on u tube for video of how to repair it. and my sons put it together in 15 minutes thank you!!!!!

took part of put new part on.30sec to do.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

Pull cover off , located the bad magnetron . Then replaced it with the new one. About 15 min. Of work.

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

Uninstalled microwave from above range, removed cover then vent assembly (slide slightly to the left to free it). Opened the control panel (slide up then tilt forward) to access the troubleshooting/repair/test sheet. Followed the diagnostic flowchart and determined the TCO above the cooking cavity had failed. No other faults found. Ordered part Sat. afternoon and rcvd it Monday. Part is held in place with spring clips and quick connect terminals so installation was easy. Microwave was back in operation in no time.