PNM1871SM3SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that held the filter cover in place, lifted out the old and replaced it with the new filter. Put the filter cover back on and replaced the two screws that hold it in place, and it was done in less than 5 minutes.

placed plastic ring under glass rotating plate in microwave

This repair was easy and could be done by anyone. If you undertake to do this replacement, remember to slowly bend the medal tabs back that hold the lens. Handled roughly these tabs could break off.

This repair can be don in under 5 minutes, easily !!

remove two screws bend out flaps remove broken glass install new glas bend flaps back to hold glass install two screws. Done.

The part received was defective and I will have to use a rotary Dremel tool to grind down plastic that wasn't properly formed during the injection mold process. This will likely take several attempts to get it properly shaped in order to install the vent grill as it currently prevents the part from sliding left to right behind the slots in the microwave hood.

Received part installed in less than one minute, easy fix alignment of part in shaft pressing down into position

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Very easy replacement by taking off the plastic trim and than the front portion of the door. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the door handle. Both pieces just snap off from clips. Next pull the spring off the latch and slide the pin that secures the latch to the door. Install everything by reversing your procedures when taking apart completing the repair.

however, I had hit the cook button and the microwave did not have an item to cook inside. Resulted in shattering the glass tray and meting the plastic lid sitting inside which was fused to the cooking tray. Carefully wrapped up the shattered tray and melted lid in heavy paper, deposited it into the garbage, then happily placed my new E.O.M. glass cooking tray into my G.E. Profile microwave. Thank you .

Replaced the filter cartridge.Problem solved.

Original vent tabs broke off. Had repaired it by attaching it back with screws and two pieces of plastic on the top, which eventually broke again. Bought this part, which fit perfectly. NOTE: part did not come with the screws. I used screws that I found on the old ventilation grille which were attached to two aluminum tabs on the inside. These screws fit perfectly for the top of the microwave attaching to the ventilation grille without a problem. Looks like new!

Watched YOU TUBE video and followed instructor’s directions.

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

I just followed your instructions that came with the filter removed the screws and slid the cover to the left