JVM3670BF10 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

This microwave has two separate spring-loaded latch pawls. To get the broken latch pawl off and install the new one you first take off the rectangular plastic trim piece from the inside of the door to expose the pawls. There is a pin that secures the pawl in place. To get the pin out I had to carefully drill a regular hole bigger than the pin with the Dremel tool at the edge of the plastic door piece. I then could extract the pin with a small screwdriver or twizzers. The old pin and spring will come out and you reverse the procedure to install pawl and pin and connect spring. Then reinstall trim piece. I put a small piece of black electricians tape over the hole I made in the door edge. It doesn't show when door is closed and it blends well with the black plastic edge. Test to make sure microwave works and mine did after some carefully fitting of the trim piece.

This particular model has 2 hooks that are separate.

1. Remove the plastic trim on the inside of the door. Use a spatula and be care not to break any of the snapping parts. It will come apart.
2. There will be a metal trim that needs to be removed in order to get to the "screw" or "rod" that holds the hook in place.
3. All around the metal trim, there are plastic snaps. Use a screw driver to release the snaps from the metal trim.
4. My metal trim did not want to fully be removed... I was able to release the side where the hooks were and the bottom snaps.
5. Use the needle nose pliers to remove the spring. I found it easier to remove the bottom part of the spring to free the hook.
6. I had to pull on the metal trim enough to get the rod out of the hook so the hook could be removed. Very difficult with one person, but I got it done.
7. Put the spring in the new hook before you install it.
8. Put the rod back in, then the hook, then through the right hole.
9. Attach the bottom of the spring back to the lower hole.
10. Snap the metal trim back onto the microwave door.
11. Snap the plastic trim back onto the door.
12. Move the hooks up and down and feel there is tension. This should probably be done after Step 9.
13. Breathe!!!!

Watched YOU TUBE video and followed instructor’s directions.

We took out the broken part, it came right out,and put new part .

Removed the control panel, one screw at the top. Removed 2 screws on the door switch holder and removed the door switch. VERY EASY.

removed old part and replaced

however, I had hit the cook button and the microwave did not have an item to cook inside. Resulted in shattering the glass tray and meting the plastic lid sitting inside which was fused to the cooking tray. Carefully wrapped up the shattered tray and melted lid in heavy paper, deposited it into the garbage, then happily placed my new E.O.M. glass cooking tray into my G.E. Profile microwave. Thank you .

placed plastic ring under glass rotating plate in microwave

Received part installed in less than one minute, easy fix alignment of part in shaft pressing down into position

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

This is a GE Profile under-the-cabinet microwave oven that retails between $620-$720 new. I unscrewed 4 bolts to drop the oven from front-to-back, removed 3 screws on the old grille assembly, and replaced it with the new one. It was so easy, a caveman could do it!

removed the bottom panel (6 screws), disconnected the two power terminals, and losened the turntable motor. installed the coupler from inside the microwave, replaced the motor, re-connected the power terminals, and bottom panel.

remove cover, unplug secondary door switch (top switch)
remove switch from holder, install new switch, plug in wires, replace cover, very easy. door switches are a common problem
with microwave ovens.