JVM3670BF10 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I removed the unit from the wall removed the top two screws holding the panel above the door I the two screws holding the control panel removed the three switchs I found the top one to be blown and replaced it

Removed control panel first then removed bracket holding door switches 8 screws total very easy fix ????

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......

Unplugged the stirrer motor and the noise stopped. Therefore, replaced the stirrer motor.

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

opened the door and put in the tray!

Pulled out broken one with fingers, put on new one with fingers, it did not have anything preventing it from just slipping on. Didn't need to take anything apart to install me part.

I simply pulled the old coupler off the moter shaft after removing glass turntable plate. The coupler lifted right out since it was fractured. Luckily all peices came out attached. Typically you would need to remove the bottom access panel on the microwave and remove the turntable motor to install the new coupler. However you can simply snap off the extra plastic piece that is molded to the coupler to allow for an easy push down onto the shaft from the inside of the microwave cooking area where the coupler fits onto the moter. Piece of cake. I don't believe there is any danger in shortcutting this because the weight of the glass plate will hold it in place.

Removed 6 screws from the front and back of the bottom of the unit. 3 screws each side. The panel will swing down. Remove the wires from the motor. Remove the one screw from the old
motor. Insert the new motor and reverse the procedure.
DIY will save you a $ 95.00 GE repairman labor bill, plus the cost of the motor. I repaired the problem for less than $25.00!

removed the broken coupler and replaced it with the new one.

Slowly and carefully to protect bulb

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .