JVM1540DN2WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

Removed broken coupler hub and pushed new hub on shaft. Make sure to align the new hub correctly when pushing on to shaft. Repair took less than 1 minute.

First I replaced the cracked cooking tray and I was done.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

My microwave was squealing horribly and replacing the turntable motor (SUPER easy btw) didn't fix it. So I figured it was a spun bearing or bushing in the cooling fan (spoiler alert -- it was!). Installation was simple and did NOT require removing the cabinet-mounted microwave from its position above our stove: Unplug microwave, carefully unscrew the 2 screws holding the vent grate above the door, remove the grate, then unscrew the one screw holding the top of the control panel to the case. Carefully pivot top of control panel down and unhook it from the case (at the bottom of the control panel there are two little legs or extensions that insert into slots in the case). Then disconnect the 3 or 4 wires that attach the control panel to the wiring harness (I marked them each with tape so I would remember where they go, but you can just take a picture with your phone). Set the control panel aside. Where the control panel was, you will be looking at the fan, with a bunch of wires between you and it. Take another phone picture for reference, just in case. Disconnect the various wires, starting at the top right and working your way around clockwise. I marked each wire with a piece of tape and a number, starting from 1 and working my way around an imaginary clock face. I think I got to 12 and then the last two (sort of buried in the middle) I labeled as "0" and "-1" but you can use any numbering series you like. Once the wires are all disconnected you can gently push them aside and unscrew the two screws holding the fan assembly in place, and disconnect the fan wire. Then gently maneuver the fan assembly out the front of the case. Installation is simply the reverse of this simple disassembly process. Voila! Back to a nice quiet microwave.

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

After examination - evidently some one had put a larger dish in the microwave and it stopped the glass plate from turning and broke the holder stirrer(small plastic piece that held the glass plate so that it could turn.
When I received the right part I simply made sure that all the prior plastic was out or out of the way and placed the new part onto to the shaft - tested it a few times, made a minor alignment and it has worked fine ever since.
Thanks to your staff for finding the right piece from the description I gave.

Unscrewed bottom panel, then unscrewed light socket, then replaced with new socket and bulb. Reattached socket and panel.

Removed control panel disconnected old capacitor installed new and returned the leads back on to the new. replaced control cover and tested

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Unscrewed bottom of unit; dropped it down. Replaced bracket, scocked and bulb. Easy job with the right parts.

Replacement tray was installed. It was larger than the original tray, but it fits in.