JVM2052SN2SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Tom from DENVER, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB24X10047
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Microwave not turning on. All other functions operate
DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK
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- Customer:
- Ronald from PONCA CITY, OK
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10928
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
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- Customer:
- Pearlie from Beulaville, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10928
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Timer, light and control pad worked. Turn table and heat did not work. Oven would not start up.
I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.
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- Customer:
- Mike from BLUFFTON, SC
- Parts Used:
- WB24X10047
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
The unit would run when the door was open!
First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.
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- Customer:
- johnny from port orange, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24X10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
no power in microwave in turn table wouldn't turn light would work act like door was open
remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now
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- Customer:
- Darin from SAN DIEGO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X35382
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No heat. No unusual noise. Appers to function other than no heat
Multimeter checked/confirmed switches, sensors, and fuse first. All good. High power diode was bad - Replaced. Still no heat but now loud "MMMMM" noise when running. This means either the capacitor is also bad and/or magnetron.
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- Customer:
- Steve from Wesley Chapel, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24X10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Turntable Stopped Working/Display Timer Would Countdown But Not Heat
With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!
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- Customer:
- Suzanne from POWELL, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB24X10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Microwave would not heat up
Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.
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- Customer:
- gilbert from TOMS RIVER, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB24X10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door Switch went bad, Internal Fan would run every time you open the door
Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.
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- Customer:
- Kip from POWELL, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10928
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Not heat
-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order
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- Customer:
- Samuel from LAS VEGAS, NV
- Parts Used:
- WB02X11096
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Cracked plastic where the spring attaches
A 2 yr old could do this snap out. Snap in less then. 30 seconds . What a shame and rip off on appliance repair shops - I called to do this rediculsley 40 second job and the wantvv$125.00!9t more. Omg. I’m a senior/ no wonder God punished the world wit Covid 19! Too many nasty infair. Buii I needed and rip offs.
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- Customer:
- Ira from LIVINGSTON, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X35382
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Food wouldn't heat up
Googled problem, removed diode, checked with meter and it was open, ordered new diode, checked new diode and it read open, installed. Any way, it didn't work. Went and bought new microwave!!
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- Customer:
- Jeffrey from FULSHEAR, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB24X10047
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
M/W would not start. control panel OK
unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced
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- Customer:
- andrew from HOMOSASSA, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB56X35363
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
installed new kitchen cabinets
the problem was the mounting bracket that was installed when the house was built ,was not the bracket that came with the microwave. It was used to step the microwave out 3" in front of the other cabinets for the style that they were using then. so when I was installing the new cabinets I didn't want that style, so I ordered the original mounting bracket. It was a perfect fit and the install went great
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- Customer:
- G. Wayne from GARDNERVILLE, NV
- Parts Used:
- WB21X10148
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
To heat a cup of coffee, user entered "10:00" instead of "1:00". Mess! After cleanup, microwave ran, but would not heat. While running, it made 2 or 3 time the noise volume as before.
I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.
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