JVM3670CF10 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

Removed the above stove microhood. Removed the side panels & the top panel. Diode located on right hand side of microwave. Removed with screwdriver & replaced new diode. It's best to get the microwave schematic online to pinpoint location of the part.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

There are five Philips screws on the bottom outside cover .one at each corner and one at the front center. Remove all four at the corners .leaving the front center for last. When the last screw is removed ,the cover will hinge down, it is attached to clips at the back that allow it fold down. The wire attached to the light socket is connected by a pull apart plug. Grasp at each end of the hard plastic connector and pull outward ,DO NOT PULL ON THE Wires ! Lift the cover from the back of the microwave place it on a flat surface on a towel keep it from sliding around. Remove the screws holding the porcelain sockets. Reverse procedure to reinstall .Installing new Halogen lamps is suggested. Use a clean tissue or cloth to handle the lamps, finger prints on the lamp will shorten the life .

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.

I replaced the cover just fine but i think a sensor went bad

slipped them into place by hand

every thing is working, but no hot

Uninstalled microwave from above range, removed cover then vent assembly (slide slightly to the left to free it). Opened the control panel (slide up then tilt forward) to access the troubleshooting/repair/test sheet. Followed the diagnostic flowchart and determined the TCO above the cooking cavity had failed. No other faults found. Ordered part Sat. afternoon and rcvd it Monday. Part is held in place with spring clips and quick connect terminals so installation was easy. Microwave was back in operation in no time.

It was a snap using the instructions given. The key is getting into the unit. I did have to use a multimeter to find the failed switch since there are two of that type.

Just like the directions said. Very simple.

Trouble shot first by removing the digital read out face plate panel, lifting it up and out. Found the thermostat housed on the bottom section (found a picture of what I was looking for). It had two connectors. Removed the connectors and noticed that the one looked burnt/melted that was on the thermostat. Took paper clip, connected it with the wires to bypass the thermostat. Plugged in the microwave and power returned. Yes! Ordered thermostat part and changed it out. The new part didn't have a piece that fit exactly into the floor of the microwave so I just made sure it was secure to the bottom. It is only attached by 1 small screw. Fixed!

Microwave would not turn on--No lights--Nothing worked 1. Removed screws from back and side and pull off microwave cover. Be careful! There HIGH voltage back there due to a large capacitor that stores power. This capacitor is charged up even with Microwave unplugged. I checked the fuse located on top back part of Microwave. A lot of the time this is the problem but this time the fuse was good. I used an Ohm meter to check to see if there was an open circuit in one of the Thermostats. There are two of them in the Microwave. The Thermostats are about the size of a dime. One is located on the top right side and the other is on the top left side. One of them was bad. I ordered a new Thermostat. It arrived in just 2 days. I installed it and the Microwave was repaired and working great.

took part of put new part on.30sec to do.

lowered bottom plate of microwave then unscrewed little motor. put the new coupler in the hole from inside of microwave, then pressed the motor shaft on to the coupler .then just screwed it all together again.simple and no straining