JEB186CDN1BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Multimeter checked/confirmed switches, sensors, and fuse first. All good. High power diode was bad - Replaced. Still no heat but now loud "MMMMM" noise when running. This means either the capacitor is also bad and/or magnetron.

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Remove the top of the microwave, regular phillips screws on sides, torque screws on back. Lift up back and slide off cover. Light bulb socket is easily detached and bulb unplugged and replaced. Slide cover from back lifted slightly so lip will slide into front of microwave, than replace screws. Be sure to unplug microwave before you start.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

Remove tray and rotating ring assembly. Turn the microwave onto the back. Locate the center plate and cut it loose with the side cutters. (Note: there are retaining slots on the opposite side) these slots hold the cover plate in place when reattaching. Use a magnetic phillips head screw driver so you don't drop the cover retaining screw. After cutting loose the cover, unplug the wires from the motor. (Note placement for correct reattachment). Remove 2 screws and remove old motor. Replace motor. Replace the screws and reattach the wires. Replace the cover (rotate so the prongs fit into the slots) tighten screw; you're done!!! I ordered the rotating ring, but I don't need it. Now I have an extra.

Replaced the 16" tray with a 14" tray. Works great now. Took about 20 seconds to take out the old tray and put in the new.

It took longer to figure out the part # than it did to fix. I took out the dish, pulled out the old assebly, slid the new one in and I was finished.

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

I used a phillips screw driver and a special type bit to undo the screws from the cabinet and found the light bulb and took the old one out and put the new one in and put it back together.

Removed outer cover, Cash with for Phillips screws as I recall, Then remove six or eight safety screws with Phillips special bit. Pulled bulb, cover back, removed, and replace bulb, back together all set

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

I assumed light was burned out and got a replacement bulb.
Removed back and side screws with slight difficulity.
Was not able to remove cover. The top front would not loosen. I tried every trick in my 80 year repertoire. I gave up and put it back together.
I emailed PartSelect last week explaining the problem. So far no reply.
I am sure I have the right model # and others seem to have little trouble removing the cover.
I paid $85 + tax for the oven and it has worked well for about 8(?) years.
From what I read here, I figured I could handle the bulb replacement.
I'm just out the cost of the bulb and shipping and the oven still works. It would have been nice to have the light work again but we will just wait until it quits working and buy another inexpensive unit.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Googled problem, removed diode, checked with meter and it was open, ordered new diode, checked new diode and it read open, installed. Any way, it didn't work. Went and bought new microwave!!