EMO3000CWW02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Turned the power to the unit off. Removed seven- (7) small screws from the base plate, not removing the rear screws. The plate dropped a few inches allowing me to get to the light socket. I removed one- (1) screw that allowed the socket to be removed. I then detached the two- (2) electrical leads. I now installed the new socket, replacing the leads and the screw along with a new bulb. I pushed the bottom plate back into the up position and replaced the seven- (7) screws. Turned the power back on and we were good to go.

Have a microwave that the light and sockets just broke in pieces so I ordered two sockets from this site . The fit perfectly and it was a breeze to install. Took out 7 screws and the plate dropped down, hooked up the little wire which was so simple and bingo I had lite again. I just wished the hold plate came down but it didn't but it was still very easy to install. Will continue to get my appliance parts from this company.

The repair was simple. It was just a matter of removing the upper vent grill to access the screws for the panel frame. Then I just popped out the old frame and installed the new one. The PartSelect website allowed me to see a visual map of all the parts of my microwave which allowed me to find and choose the right piece for the job. It only took 15 minutes for the start to finish repair.

Remove air inlet piece with two screws. Remove one screw holding the frame on. Whole keypad with frame is loose though still attached with wiring. Remove old frame from keypad and replace with new and reinstall.

replaced

My microwave is built in above the stove which provides lighting and fans for my stove. The glass lens cover for the lighting was cracked in several places and the light bulbs had burned out. I taped the glass lens for removal so it didn't break apart due to the cracks Removed the one screw. .Both light bulbs broke away from the base sockets as I tried to unscrew them. I used electrical tape wrapping in reverse on a lightbulb (socket end) so it was sticky for a grip on the base, shoved it in the sockets and was unable to unscrew the broke off bases. So it was very successful and no repair man was needed.

The old one was extremely difficult to remove, like it was ‘welded‘ in place. I had to crush and destroy it with vice grips in order to get it. it off. The new one would not go on unless I modified it by removing a “spur“ which prevented it from sitting flush with the bottom of the oven. All in all it took less than 25 minutes and it is now working well.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

There where five screws to remove to get the bottom off then two to release the motor from the housing pull the electrical supply cord out then reverse the process. Piece of cake.

Changed the bulbs and it still wouldn't work. Checked voltage coming from board to the lights and did not have 110 volts. Several relays on board that operate the fan and various other components and all those were working properly. Checked voltage leaving board and did not have any voltage. Thought it may be the board. After replacing the board noticed a burn mark on back of board under the relays.

Checked pricing from GE, Sears and Parts Select. Parts select was a lot cheaper price and exact replacement part. Shipping cost was reasonable and quick.

I turned off the breaker/electric power to the microwave; opened the base of the microwave, detached the wire to the old drive motor, removed the
screws holding the drive motor in place; removed the old drive motor and installed
the new drive motor---beyond easy!!!

Thank you!

unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.

I removed the inner bracket that held the glass in place with a nylon dish scraper that we use to clean our pots and pans with. It was safer than using a screw driver. I inserted the tapered portion of the scraper between in the bracket and the door edge on the inside of course,then slid it across the opening all around the door until the it separated. Making it easy to remove scews for the handle and the glass bracket.

I diagnosed the problem myself. I googled GE parts and was refered to you guys. I ordered the part and it took less than a 5 days to arrive. I used a phillips scewdrive to remove the cover of my microwave and removed the turning glass motor. This took less that 30min and cost less that $50.00. I figured that it would have cost me approx $125.00 to get a tech person to my home for this repair.

Thanks a lot!

Bernard

bought a replacement for it