JVM1850DMCC01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Took the screw out of the glass door holder, bent the clips up and removed the broken glass. While this was open chenged the light bulbs as well. Put new glass in bent the holding clips down and closed the doors and installed the screws again. So nice to have good light again and also new glass in them. Never noticed they were broken before.

BY THE WAY PARTS SELECT IS VERY PROMPT AND I RECEIVED MY PARTS IN ONE DAY AFTER THEY SHIPPED. SHIPPED ON MONDAY GOT THEM TUESDAY, thanks parts select for your promtness and speedy work for shipment.

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

Unplugged the stirrer motor and the noise stopped. Therefore, replaced the stirrer motor.

Remove screws holding bottom cover. Cover then swings down allowing access to the receptacles. Receptacles have a single screw attaching them to the appliance with a simple electrical plug supplying power. Very easy.

remove 2 screws from top of grille; remove grille by moving it to the left and then away.
remove old filter by lifting the front edge and then pull out, and replace it wih a new one using the reverse order of the above.
replace grrille and screws.
The repair is a 'no brainer'.

I simply pulled the old coupler off the moter shaft after removing glass turntable plate. The coupler lifted right out since it was fractured. Luckily all peices came out attached. Typically you would need to remove the bottom access panel on the microwave and remove the turntable motor to install the new coupler. However you can simply snap off the extra plastic piece that is molded to the coupler to allow for an easy push down onto the shaft from the inside of the microwave cooking area where the coupler fits onto the moter. Piece of cake. I don't believe there is any danger in shortcutting this because the weight of the glass plate will hold it in place.

Pulled out broken one with fingers, put on new one with fingers, it did not have anything preventing it from just slipping on. Didn't need to take anything apart to install me part.

Lower base of the microwave, about 6 screws,
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.

opened the door and put in the tray!

removed the broken coupler and replaced it with the new one.

Must remove 5 screws in bottom of Microwave, which is hinged to the unit. Then simply remove the old lamp holders, and replace with replacements. Uses only a single screw for each lamp.

very easy

Slowly and carefully to protect bulb

I followed the instructions provided by others on-line who had done a similar repair. I removed a handful of screws, disconnected the wires from the old drive motor and connected them to the new drive, replaced the screws that held the drive motor in place, and those that held the bottom housing in place, and I was done. Literally took less than 10 minutes. If I had known earlier how easy it was, the microwave would have been fixed much earlier.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.