JES1131WC002 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

remove cover, unplug secondary door switch (top switch)
remove switch from holder, install new switch, plug in wires, replace cover, very easy. door switches are a common problem
with microwave ovens.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

Replace the fuses

remove cover-unplug wires from secondary switch-remove switch-snap in new switch-plug in wires-replace cover-works great. very easy to do.

removed access panal, found soft switch as discribed on your web site. removed and replaced.

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

I googled "Microwave stopped working", and after reviewing numerous websites with suggestions, I found the response noted below at "Help Owl" which was the most straighfoward and clear explanation to trouble shoot the problem. I first tested the Thermal Cut Out (TCO) per the instructions below and that was the problem. I didn't have to test the electrical fuse. Turns out that you cannot typically use the microwave continuously for more the 12 or 13 minutes or it may overheat and the TCO will shut it down. Extremely easy to test for and fix, and the part is only $15! See Trouble Shooting steps as follows: Make sure that the unit is vented properly and that if you are using it for prolonged periods while cooking, that you turn-on the vent fan.
If there is no display / power within the unit...first check your power source where you plug the unit into the wall.

If that is good, Remove the Cabinette/Cover "Note: it has 3-Torx Anti-Tamper Screws".

Then as you face the microwave from the rear, at the left rear corner is a small circuit board with a fuse. "Check the Fuse"

If the fuse is good, Check the following:

1 - The most common component failure is the "Cabinette TCO" (Thermal Cut-Off Thermostat).

As you face the microwave from the rear...It is located under the cover, on top, on the left front corner area.

It is a Circular, Black & Silver Disc Shaped component about the size of a dime in diameter and is about 1/2" in height.

It has Two (2) Wires attached to it's spade connectors and it acts as a safety fuse.

"IF YOU PUT AN INSULATED JUMPER WIRE ACROSS THE 2 TERMINALS THE POWER SHOULD RETURN AND THE DISPLAY WILL LIGHT"

Anything other than these two items should be checked by an Authorized Service Technician as these microwaves have components thay carry "HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK HAZZARDS"

First unplugged the microwave, took top grill off, took control panel off, took wires off and used color coded tape to make sure they went back in right places, took fuse out and replaced it and put every thing back and it all worked fine and to top it off my wife did it all. So it was pretty easy.

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

Remove the back cover screws and remove back/top. Locate the thermostat and remove the two Phillip screws. Cut off old scorched terminals and replace with new terminal connectors on the wire ends and install new thermostat and reassemble.

Took the screws out that held the oven case on. Looked around and found a connection on the oven cavity thermal cut out the plastic melted and black looking. I knew this was the problem but I checked the fuse anyway and the fuse was good, so I ordered the part from part select and they shipped it out fast and now my microwave is working again.

Removed cover. Found oven flame thermal cutout and measured across the terminals with an ohmmeter. Found no continuity. Thermal cutout wasn't allowing a complete path for input line. Ordered the oven cutout and 2 days later I installed the new part, re-assembled the oven cover and Voila! Fixed. Simple repair saved my friend from having to purchase a new microwave.