JVM1630WH002 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Others have covered the process, but I have one piece of advice. The glass must be FULLY inserted into the little tabs of the plastic door frame. It is a force fit. If you don't seat the glass fully into the tabs, the frame will be curved around the glass. The plastic will be stressed, and will very soon crack again near the bottom of the handle.

I found that any water soluble lubricant, applied with a cotton swab or small screwdriver blade into the little tabs, will allow the glass to fit into the tabs easier. I also stood the door on edge on a towel, covered the top edge with another towel and, very gingerly, used a small rubber mallet to seat the plastic rim down onto the glass. Scary, but effective. You can tell when the glass and rim are properly mated by looking down the long inner edge of the plastic rim where it meets the glass. It should be straight, not curved. Dress it with the rubber hammer until it is no longer bowed.

Wash the water-based lubricant completely off and out of the assembly, and finish up.

I have worked long years in factories, and I suspect that in the factory they have a press of some kind to do this job, and a jig to hold and align the work as it is assembled.

The burned remnant of the coupler was a bit difficult to remove. I did so with a pliers and also used the pliers to clear out some burned fragments of the coupler. With a flashlight I determined that the slot for the coupler was now clear. I matched the configuration of the slot with that of the new coupler and it slid immediately into place with no difficulty whatever.

Just put in place and screwed the two screws in.

open microwave door remove 3 screws on top of microwave, slide top panel to the left and pull out top panel slide old filter out put in new one and reassemble

after reading another comment all I did was lift the old door off and replace the new one with help from my friend..we are both over 60s women and it was easy thanks

I had already removed the old grease filters. Unwrapped the new grease filters and popped into place. No tools were necessary.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

This is an above the range microwave, use 2 people to remove it. I set it on a table and removed the outer cabinet. I then used jumper leads to discharge the capacitor. I removed the control panel (taking a picture to ensure proper wiring on assembly), then I removed the latch board. Once I had the latch board out I removed the monitor switch (which is the middle switch) and tested it for continuity. This is a normally closed switch. I tested the other two switches as well and found these (normally open) switches for continuity to be good and the monitor switch to have a short. This switch should show continuity when the door is open and should show no resistance when the door is closed. (Take care removing the switches) After I received the parts I installed them in the new Locker Holder and installed the latch board (ensure to follow the latch board adjustment steps located in the control board). I then attached the wiring to the control board and then plugged in the unit. I tested the unit to ensure it functioned correctly. I then installed the outer cabinet, and then installed the unit above the range (Use 2 people for this process). Overall an easy fix you just need to ensure you follow safety procedures (especially when dealing with capacitors.
Take a lot of pictures of the wiring and of the components and take care with the latch board or you'll have to buy a new one when all you really needed is a monitor switch.

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

Used Google to locate parts dealers for GE.
Ordered from Partselect.

Part arrived a few days later and I easily put it in.

I thought the cost of this part was out of line but all others sold it for about the same.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

The first holder locker was shipped in a soft envelope and was damaged in shipping. I ordered a second holder locker with instructions to ship in a hard container and mentioned what happened to the first holder locker. The second holder locker was shipped also in a soft envelope and was received damaged.

I notified customer service and have yet to receive a response.

I now have the part on order with a local company.
Kenneth Files
(831) 688-0740

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.