JVM1631BB003 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Unplugged the microwave first, then removed the screws that hold the cover in place. This gives easy access to the socket. Remove the screws that hold the socket in, unplug old socket, replace with new one and you are back in the light again.

I removed a plastic cover that goes around the glass on the back of the microwave, There are two screws that hold the handle, I took the two screws out, put the new handle in place and put the screws back on and thight them. Make sure handle was secured and then put back the plastic cover around the glass door, took me about 15 minutes.

The part that made this difficult was that you had to unmount the microwave first. It's a bilt bulky.
Once the unit is on the table, you have to take the case off to get to the inside. Then you have to make sure the high voltage capacitor is discharged before poking around. I had to remove the transformer in order to get to the magnetron. Part fit perfectly. Stirrer was easy since you could get to it from the inside of the microwave. Reassembled and unit is working again. The hard part was really mounting and unmounting the unit.

1. Take off bottom panel
2. discon wire from microwave
3. set panel on table
4. unscrew panel cover under metal cover bracket
5. need to do that because screw from cover panel won't let you put in light bulb in round hole in metal cover panel
6. take new socket holder and insert bulb
and screw back on to metal cover bracket after remove bad socket holder and bulb by unscrewing
7. recon wire
8. test before putting back bottom panel
9. screw bottom panel back on.

There are 4 thermostats (aka TCO = Thermal Cut Out) in the GE JVM1440BH04
The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door.

Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse.

There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy:

1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation.

2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave.


"Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319


3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation.

1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly.

4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C.

4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.

The old fuse is perfectly good. The new ones arrived within a day.

After reading some of the comments that others wrote, I decided to order the light sockets along with the replacement bulbs. As predicted, the old light bulbs broke when I tried to remove them - the bulb separated from the base which was still screwed in the socket. After removing the screws that held the bottom panel, I was able to remove the socket assemblies with ease. After inspection of the old sockets, I was glad I ordered new sockets - the old sockets were burned in some spots and very brittle. The parts arrived within a day and a half after I ordered them, but when the parts arrived, one of the bulbs was broken (happened during shipping). I called the office phone number and talked to a really pleasant technician who refunded me the price of the broken bulb and placed an order for a replacement. That was the Wednesday evening before Thanksgiving Day. I got the replacement bulb yesterday (Tuesday) morning - still really quick considering the Thanksgiving holiday. All of the parts are installed and are working excellent. I am definately going to keep their WEBsite for future use, and I'll be letting my friends know about them. Thanks PartSelect, you've earned my business.

Philips head screwdriver to remove 2 screws holding plastic grill above microwave door in place. Old Filter lifts out slide new filter in. It rests on an angle. Re insert Grill (careful that plastic tabs slide into proper slots). Tighten SCrews

First, I waste $65 by calling some "REPAIR" service. They showed at home and charge me that just to tell me
Second, I researched on the web and ordered a part, which was not the issue. I waste abnother $72
Third, I found Part-Select and got the right answer: the Diode was the problem. Ordered the part form Part-Select and it FIxed it !!!

Note: I did not buy a new microwave because this one is mounted on the wall and it will cost me +$800 just the lowest price.

First open the microwave door. On the back you will see a plastic part about 3/4 inch wide surrounding the glass in the door. I used a butter knife as suggested by other users to pry it off by slipping the knife along the outer edge and prying the part out. Being careful not to crack tabs. This exposes 2 screws on the handle. Remove screws. Next, pry out the metal surround shield in the same manner with butter knife. This exposes another set of 2 screws. Remove screws. Note which ones these are. Handle then comes off and you can replace new handle, insert 2 inner screws just removed, snap metal surround shield back in place, insert last 2 screws then snap plastic surrounding part back in place.

1. turned off electricity -- unplugged the unit 2. removed 3 screws on top of top vent, removed vent screen then I located the little white cylindrical fuse and popped it out with a table knife. Then I popped in the new fuse. Replaced the vent screen and screws -- plugged in the appliance and it is working again.

I ended up breaking one bulb trying to remove a burnt bulb for replacement. We then tried removing the other bulb and it wouldn't come out either. I googled the problem and found PartSelect and an explaination of the problem. Heat from either the stove or the bulbs had fused the bulbs into the sockets. Comments on the problem explained that you just remove the bottome pannel (we had seven screws), unplug the old sockets, insert the new and new bulbs and reattach the panel. It was quick and no problems to correct. We did discover the microwave was on its own breaker, make sure to disconnect or cutoff power to the microwave before you start.

This was a super easy repair job. I couldn't figure out how the lens that covered the light bulb would have cracked and realized it must have been from my contractor when he replaced my stove. I can't prove it, of course, so I am left doing the repairs. The website was very easy to order from and confirm that I had the correct parts as the model numbers tend to change over time.

Once you remove the outside cover, there is a vertical internal shield held in by several screws that needs to be removed to gain access to the magnetron. Then you can unplug the main connector and unscrew the two screws that secure a thermal switch to its side. The nuts on the top that hold it in are tight, but can be undone. A minor nuisance is that you can't get it out without moving the high voltage transformer underneath it out of the way (also a few screws to undo it). Replacing the stirrer is quickly done from inside the cooking area by prying out the small plastic piece that secures the round plastic cover in the roof to gain access. The repair kit also comes with the high voltage diode, located to the front of the magnetron, which should also be replaced. One awkward screw holds the ground end to the chassis and the other end can be pulled down and off the capacitor terminal with pliers. Be careful not to touch the open capacitor terminal, in case it still has voltage on it.

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.