JVM1430BA01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.

Above the stove mounted microwave. I dropped the lens cover from under the bulb and tried to remove the bulb. The bulb separated from the base. I tried to remove the base with a pliers and the lamp socket broke. I ordered the parts and dropped the bottom cover of the unit down (5 screws). Removed 1 screww from the lamp socket, unplugged the wires and took it out. Simply replaced socket, fastened bottom cover of microwave, installed new bulb and closed lens cover.

First I unplugged the microwave. :) Then, I removed the 6 screws found underneath the microwave, which allowed the bottom piece to hang down so I could see the turntable motor. I took the two screws out holding the motor in place and pulled the electric connectors off the motor terminals. Then I got the new part from PartSelect.com, replaced the electrical commectors, fit the motor back into the slot it came from (cause the pin has to be seated up in the hole) and replaced the 2 screws holding in the motor. Then I put the bottom metal piece back up and put the 6 screws back in. It was really easy - and I'm a chick! ;)

At first I tried to use pliers to unscrew the base,very uncomfortable working position,upside down and backwards(the microwave is installed over the range top)very limited space for your body and arms to manuver and you really cant see the base,all of this took place after the breaker was turned off ofcourse,finally figured out that you can drop the entire bottom housing of the microwave by unscrewing 6 screws and the light sockets are easily accessable once you lower it,take out 1 retaining screw ,remove the entire socket and unscrewed the broken base and replaced the bulbs,I said bulbs,there is no sense in having to replace another bulb in who knows how long since only one had burned out but they were both the same age

Had to take unit off wall and disassemble the main casing.then disconnected the wires from the magnetron.took the mounting nuts off but wasn't able to remove the magnetron until I loosened the transformer out of the way .Then it came out easy.Installed the magnetron ,tightened the nuts,installed the transformer back in, connected the the wires back on and installed the casing on ,screwed the screws and got help to install the unit to the wall again.....Tested the unit before putting back on the wall to make sure it heated....The parts were exac same type and wasn't too hard to do...

Unscrewed bottom plate of microwave and two screws that secured motor. Disconnect wires. Reversed process when installing new motor. Couldn't have been easier.

The tray drive motor arrived quickly. I opened the package and made sure the correct motor arrived. I shut off the power to the microwave/exhaust hood. Then I grabbed a screwdriver and dropped 5 screws from the bottom of the microwave. I then removed 2 more screws that hold the motor in place. Unplugged the 21 volt power clips. Placed the new motor in position and replaced the screws and attatched the power clips. I then placed the bottom pan in position and replaced the 5 screws that hold it to the bottom of the microwave. Turned the microwave on and it worked properly! The total cost was $40 and I probably saved more than a hundred dollars on a service call. What a happy ending and it took about 5 minutes to perform the repair! Thanks PartSelect. You are the best!

Unplugged the microwave first, then removed the screws that hold the cover in place. This gives easy access to the socket. Remove the screws that hold the socket in, unplug old socket, replace with new one and you are back in the light again.

I removed a plastic cover that goes around the glass on the back of the microwave, There are two screws that hold the handle, I took the two screws out, put the new handle in place and put the screws back on and thight them. Make sure handle was secured and then put back the plastic cover around the glass door, took me about 15 minutes.

Replaced High Voltage Diode. Very carfully due to the extream danger of a electrical shock.

To get to the switches you need to remove the metal cover/housing of the microwave, by first removing several screws that hold it in place, and then sliding the cover towards the back of the unit. You'll find the switches in some plastic holders above the door-open button, and it's its easy to see how the mechanism engages/disengages the switches when the door is opened and closed.

If it is not obvious which switch is bad, in our case the bad switch felt "soft" when we pressed the switch button with our fingers. A good switch has a firm "click" when pressed.

The switches are easy to replace - pop out the old switch (no tools required) and pull off the electrical connectors. Then pop in the new switch and reattach the connectors.

A great place to start is to reveiw the posting from "Marla From Arlington TX" posted on 8-3-09. It provides an excellent description of the process that you will need to follow. The only additional thing that I would add is to check the contacts on the switches. In my case I found that all three of the switches had a small build-up of corrosion. I used sandpaper to clean the contacts. Because none of the switches had a "soft" click to them, it was hard to identify the bad one. I basically picked the worse looking one and then cleaned the contacts of the other two. I'm not sure if I actually even had a bad switch or if they all just needed cleaning. Whatever the case, it worked. I would suggest checking the contacts first. You may get away with not having to replace any of the switches. And in my case what makes me think that it may have just simply been dirty contacts is that the heating mechanism would engage every now and then. It wasn't dead 100 percent of the time. It's worth a try anyway.

1. Take off bottom panel
2. discon wire from microwave
3. set panel on table
4. unscrew panel cover under metal cover bracket
5. need to do that because screw from cover panel won't let you put in light bulb in round hole in metal cover panel
6. take new socket holder and insert bulb
and screw back on to metal cover bracket after remove bad socket holder and bulb by unscrewing
7. recon wire
8. test before putting back bottom panel
9. screw bottom panel back on.

Remove the 2 Torx-15 screws at left of control panel. Work the control panel out by pulling slightly to the left first - it is engaged to the slotted holes to the right.

Remove the door's upper switch by lifting the tab and pulling out the switch carefully. To install the new switch, you may have to remove 2 philips screws holding the plastic assembly where the switches are mounted to the metal frame.

Diagrams on the website are misleading b/c the switch shown up on top of the other 2 switches is the switch w/ the NC (upper) terminal while you'll need the NO (lower) terminal for this repair (symptoms are: turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok). I should have called before ordering the part (had to pay shipping twice)...

Once I got the right part, it works just like before.