JVM1870SF04 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I unscrewed two screws on top of the microwave, slid the part (which opens when the microwave is in use) to the left and put it aside. The old filter is then easily picked up and removed. I placed the new filter in the same spot. I repositioned the removed part in place, lining up the little tabs, slid it to the right, which automatically lined up for replacement of the screws. These directions were included with the new filter and it was very easy to follow. I can't believe anyone would pay someone else to do this simple task! I am a 67 year old female.

Just removed the screws from botton of unit, unplugged and removed the burned up motor, reveresed the process to install new motor. Less than 10 minute job.

unsrewed the bottom of the microwave(there was about five or six screws)located the motor unpluged it and unscrewed the two screws holding the motor once installed i reversed the proceedure and put everything back together...simple as 1,2,3...

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

I finally found the two screws to remove the fan opening. Once I did that I did not locate an OLD charcoal filter!! I just deducted there was never one in there, based on where the instructions said it should be located. I placed the new filter and let it "rest on an angle" as per the instructions I read from the diagram, and from the other peoples description online. I put the breaker back on and all seems fine!

ha to remove the bottom ,to get at the internal screws that held the drive motor. after disconnecting the power to the moter, i removed the two screws that held it in place. i installed thre new motor , reconnected the wire plug to motor . replaced the outer screws, and the project was done.

This particular model has 2 hooks that are separate.

1. Remove the plastic trim on the inside of the door. Use a spatula and be care not to break any of the snapping parts. It will come apart.
2. There will be a metal trim that needs to be removed in order to get to the "screw" or "rod" that holds the hook in place.
3. All around the metal trim, there are plastic snaps. Use a screw driver to release the snaps from the metal trim.
4. My metal trim did not want to fully be removed... I was able to release the side where the hooks were and the bottom snaps.
5. Use the needle nose pliers to remove the spring. I found it easier to remove the bottom part of the spring to free the hook.
6. I had to pull on the metal trim enough to get the rod out of the hook so the hook could be removed. Very difficult with one person, but I got it done.
7. Put the spring in the new hook before you install it.
8. Put the rod back in, then the hook, then through the right hole.
9. Attach the bottom of the spring back to the lower hole.
10. Snap the metal trim back onto the microwave door.
11. Snap the plastic trim back onto the door.
12. Move the hooks up and down and feel there is tension. This should probably be done after Step 9.
13. Breathe!!!!

Had to have my neighbor work on getting the broken grill out and then put the new one one. It definitely took some time. Was not user friendly.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

The Glass cooking tray was very noisy. This was verified by turning off the tray rotation.

1. Removed the two metal filters.
2. Removed the screws holding the bottom cover of the microwave. 6 or 7 I believe.
3. Removed the two screws holding the drive motor in place.
4. Started the microwave with the motor hanging down to to verify it was defective. I could hear the motor rotating and making noise.
5. Replaced the motor, bottom cover, & filters in reverse order.
6. Tested, Works fine!

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

Received part installed in less than one minute, easy fix alignment of part in shaft pressing down into position

I just followed your instructions that came with the filter removed the screws and slid the cover to the left

This microwave has two separate spring-loaded latch pawls. To get the broken latch pawl off and install the new one you first take off the rectangular plastic trim piece from the inside of the door to expose the pawls. There is a pin that secures the pawl in place. To get the pin out I had to carefully drill a regular hole bigger than the pin with the Dremel tool at the edge of the plastic door piece. I then could extract the pin with a small screwdriver or twizzers. The old pin and spring will come out and you reverse the procedure to install pawl and pin and connect spring. Then reinstall trim piece. I put a small piece of black electricians tape over the hole I made in the door edge. It doesn't show when door is closed and it blends well with the black plastic edge. Test to make sure microwave works and mine did after some carefully fitting of the trim piece.

I read several customer reviews before starting the repair. Removed the old drive motor to make sure I was ordering the correct part. Removal consisted of removing the screws on the bottom plate, disconnecting the electrical plug from the motor, and removing the one screw that attached the motor to the housing. Installation of the new motor was the reverse.