HVM1540LN1CS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

After examination - evidently some one had put a larger dish in the microwave and it stopped the glass plate from turning and broke the holder stirrer(small plastic piece that held the glass plate so that it could turn.
When I received the right part I simply made sure that all the prior plastic was out or out of the way and placed the new part onto to the shaft - tested it a few times, made a minor alignment and it has worked fine ever since.
Thanks to your staff for finding the right piece from the description I gave.

Put it in place. Ordered replacement over internet on Wednesday and part arrived Friday. Very fast service!

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

New one arrived very quickly.

Right part. Right on time. Fit like it should.

Excellent service.

Removed control panel disconnected old capacitor installed new and returned the leads back on to the new. replaced control cover and tested

replaced

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

I tried to install the new part several times, but it didn't work. So I used a pencil to move things around down the shaft. After that the new part went in and now my microwave is doing what I need it to do.

Took out the door to be able to replace the door latch. After removing the plastic cover it was challenging to remove the broken latch (unlike other models this has two separate latches individually controlled by spring. The pin holding the latch was impossible to take out and I figured I need to take out inner layer of the door frame (metal part) to remove it. But the frame was stuck and did not come out. I found no reference how to do it on internet and then with another pair of hand pulled outwards while simultaneously pulling upward. Was finally about to pull just enough and replace the latch and push the metal frame to fit back.

Unscrewed bottom panel, then unscrewed light socket, then replaced with new socket and bulb. Reattached socket and panel.

ordered 2 new sockets and bulbs easy replacement great service from this site

My microwave is built in above the stove which provides lighting and fans for my stove. The glass lens cover for the lighting was cracked in several places and the light bulbs had burned out. I taped the glass lens for removal so it didn't break apart due to the cracks Removed the one screw. .Both light bulbs broke away from the base sockets as I tried to unscrew them. I used electrical tape wrapping in reverse on a lightbulb (socket end) so it was sticky for a grip on the base, shoved it in the sockets and was unable to unscrew the broke off bases. So it was very successful and no repair man was needed.