JVM1490CD003 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

1) Using two flat bladed screw drivers, gently pry between the plastic door inside-face-plate and the plastic door frame to release plastic retention clips. Start on the bottom edge closest to the handle and work towards the hinge end. Next unhook the handle side, then the top edge. Unhook the hinge side last. When the last hook is released, the inside face plate will be free.

2) Use a small phillips screw driver to remove the slotted metal door cover. This will expose the two bolts which hold the top and bottom ends of the handle to the door. Note that it is particularly helpful if you have a MAGNETIZED screw driver for this step and for the re-installation step.

3) Unscrew the two bolts holding the top and bottom of the handle. KEEP THESE BOLTS - the new handle does NOT come with new bolts.

4) Attach the new handle using the two bolts. On the handle I installed, it was necessary to apply unusually high torque in order to fully seat the handle. If I hadn't done this the handle would have felt slightly loose each time I pulled the door open.

5) Replace the slotted metal door cover.

6) Snap the inside face plate back into place starting with the hinge side first.

First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.

I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector off the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.

After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!

Had to remove microwave from the wall. Then disassemble entire top assembly to get to the part. Easy enough to replace after that. Then just reassemble and reinstall. About 2hrs. total

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

first I had to remove a plastic cover on the back of the door to get to the thing your instructions said where to start. I figured out how to do that myself. Taking this cover off was difficult because I was afraid I was going to break it. After I got the cover off I noticed that most of the plastic clips that held it on were so crysalized ( I guess from the continued heat exposure) that the broke off. After removing a few screws I now was able to do what your instructions told me to how to remove this door plate. Again just some pastic clip held it in place. I could not unlatch these clips and remove this cover because you had to hold about 3 or 4 different clips apart at the same time and just myself couldn't do that by myself. So eventually I had to get some help with another person to hold all these clipps apart at the same time to get this plate off. After we got this off it was easy to change the door latch and put back together. So not knowing how to do this and your instructions not able to tell me everything I needed to know, I turned a 15-20 minute job into about 2 hours.

Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.

Remove microwave and set on flat surface. Remove all screws on top. Remove all screws around back edge holding top on. Finally remove the screws on botton holding top on and remove top. On left side on top, remove 6 screws holding black channel in place. Also remove 3 screws holding metal top in place. Now lift black channel up and unplug 2 wires on cutout. Replace cutout and reinstall everything in reverse order. Worst part is taking microwave down and reinstalling.

tried to replace rack holder but was unable. It did not turn easily and took a screwdriver to pry it out before replacing it. No instructions were available from manufacturer so we were afraid if we pried it out we would be severing different entry parts for the rack holder. Not a good scene!!!We finally pried it out but without instructions.

First removed the screw that holds the cover. Replace it and put the screw back on. Se acabó. So easy. I will go easy using harsh detergents that may had damage the cover.

The spacesaver is mounted over the stovetop. I removed the oven, then removed all the screws from the cover. Removed the cover and located the TCO and removed the wiring and the TCO. Ordered the part VIA internet and replaced it . It helps a little that I was Radar tec. and taught Electronics for 10 years and repaired lots of Microwaves. However anyone could do it just watch what you remove and replace in reverse order.

Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.

This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.

One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.

Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.

Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.

All is well and working.

Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.

This is the second time replacing this fuse, last time was exactly one year ago. The first time I replaced it, I removed the oven from the wall & disassembled a number of things to reach the culprit. This time I left the oven mounted & was able to access the 2 grille mounting screws on the top of the grille & remove it. Next comes the black plastic air deflector held by two screws & is mounted in front & on the right, it is shown on the parts list just above part #1434. After removing it, remove the two silver cover screws in the front, this cover also doesn't have a part # but is shown to the right of part #1410. At this point you can lift this cover enough to access the fuse which is on the left & held in place by one tiny screw through the clamp at the top, (careful not to drop it when removing). PS: Don't forget to cut the power to the microwave before starting!

Replaced

This was the second time I've had to open up the microwave. 1st time display would blank out but system would continue to operate. Found solder connections on board to LED display were defective. Resoldered and unit was fine. This time I found the connection to the oven cavity temp cut-off was bad, plastic connection cover melted. When unit operated bottom lead and wire would heat up. Couldn't measure a Discernable distance so either wire or connector connection surface was not sufficient to carry the current. 1st replaced sensor still wire heated up. Replaced connector and there was no sign how heat from resistances.