PEM1050DM1BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

It was a snap using the instructions given. The key is getting into the unit. I did have to use a multimeter to find the failed switch since there are two of that type.

Remove cover-the hardest part, as I needed to buy a new set of driver bits that included the dimpled security drivers to remove three screws. GE includes schematic and troubleshooting flow chart with the unit, taped inside the cover. Required more time to look up the part on-line and order it than time used to make the repair.

I removed the cover this required a special star Apex tip witha hole in the center. $10 for a set at Lowes.Replaced the fuse and Thermal cut out at the same time. The oven woks like a charm.I would like to add that GE customer service was no help basically told me that it was a throw away unit. If they built it you can fix it.Hope this helps any DIY breathern outthere.

New part came -- perfect fit, set it in the microwave, no problem.

Installed new one. I do not know if these rings can be repaired

Removed the above stove microhood. Removed the side panels & the top panel. Diode located on right hand side of microwave. Removed with screwdriver & replaced new diode. It's best to get the microwave schematic online to pinpoint location of the part.

1. Using wire cutters, cut out sheet metal cover over motor on oven bottom. The stamped bottom is retained by the four corners which were not cut in the stamping. 2. Remove and replace motor. 3. Replace motor cover with supplied screw. (failure symptoms: turn table vibrated before it stopped completely.)

Remove the back cover screws and remove back/top. Locate the thermostat and remove the two Phillip screws. Cut off old scorched terminals and replace with new terminal connectors on the wire ends and install new thermostat and reassemble.

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

I had a bad cut off sensor on oven cavity I ran the Microwave with nothing in it and it smoked I ran it for another 6 months then 1 day I was heating water and it stop- working. I put a new tube in might be Okay but I was not going to risk it taking another cut off sensor on overload. You have to change sensor and put on a new tube. Clearly it would be cheaper to buy a new unit but it was only 2 years old and I am an old tech and was curious. The sensor cost only 16 bucks new tube about 55 a replace brand new oven 81 bucks there you have it I was stubborn and going to get that sucker back into operation I had another oven go out the same way

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.

Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.

it was a simple screw in on both ends. no soldering