JE520BW005 General Electric Microwave - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Debra from Concord, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10597
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Not heating
Removed the above stove microhood. Removed the side panels & the top panel. Diode located on right hand side of microwave. Removed with screwdriver & replaced new diode. It's best to get the microwave schematic online to pinpoint location of the part.
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- Customer:
- Butch from Gulfport, MS
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10985
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Started with a burning smell and eventually no operation at all.
Took the screws out that held the oven case on. Looked around and found a connection on the oven cavity thermal cut out the plastic melted and black looking. I knew this was the problem but I checked the fuse anyway and the fuse was good, so I ordered the part from part select and they shipped it out fast and now my microwave is working again.
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- Customer:
- Wayne from Elkton, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10985
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Display dead. Microwave appears like it isn't plugged in.
Removed cover. Found oven flame thermal cutout and measured across the terminals with an ohmmeter. Found no continuity. Thermal cutout wasn't allowing a complete path for input line. Ordered the oven cutout and 2 days later I installed the new part, re-assembled the oven cover and Voila! Fixed. Simple repair saved my friend from having to purchase a new microwave.
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- Customer:
- Jeffrey from Gaithersburg, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10597
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven failed to heat food.
Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.
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- Customer:
- MANUEL from ESCONDIDO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10597
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
diode burnt
it was a simple screw in on both ends. no soldering
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- Customer:
- Robert from The Woodlands, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10985
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Microwave stopped working and nothing would show on the display...completely dead. Wife had just heated two separate items, one for about 10 minutes and one for about 6 minutes. Mircowave was hot to the touch.
I googled "Microwave stopped working", and after reviewing numerous websites with suggestions, I found the response noted below at "Help Owl" which was the most straighfoward and clear explanation to trouble shoot the problem. I first tested the Thermal Cut Out (TCO) per the instructions below and that was the problem. I didn't have to test the electrical fuse. Turns out that you cannot typically use the microwave continuously for more the 12 or 13 minutes or it may overheat and the TCO will shut it down. Extremely easy to test for and fix, and the part is only $15! See Trouble Shooting steps as follows: Make sure that the unit is vented properly and that if you are using it for prolonged periods while cooking, that you turn-on the vent fan.
If there is no display / power within the unit...first check your power source where you plug the unit into the wall.
If that is good, Remove the Cabinette/Cover "Note: it has 3-Torx Anti-Tamper Screws".
Then as you face the microwave from the rear, at the left rear corner is a small circuit board with a fuse. "Check the Fuse"
If the fuse is good, Check the following:
1 - The most common component failure is the "Cabinette TCO" (Thermal Cut-Off Thermostat).
As you face the microwave from the rear...It is located under the cover, on top, on the left front corner area.
It is a Circular, Black & Silver Disc Shaped component about the size of a dime in diameter and is about 1/2" in height.
It has Two (2) Wires attached to it's spade connectors and it acts as a safety fuse.
"IF YOU PUT AN INSULATED JUMPER WIRE ACROSS THE 2 TERMINALS THE POWER SHOULD RETURN AND THE DISPLAY WILL LIGHT"
Anything other than these two items should be checked by an Authorized Service Technician as these microwaves have components thay carry "HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK HAZZARDS"
If there is no display / power within the unit...first check your power source where you plug the unit into the wall.
If that is good, Remove the Cabinette/Cover "Note: it has 3-Torx Anti-Tamper Screws".
Then as you face the microwave from the rear, at the left rear corner is a small circuit board with a fuse. "Check the Fuse"
If the fuse is good, Check the following:
1 - The most common component failure is the "Cabinette TCO" (Thermal Cut-Off Thermostat).
As you face the microwave from the rear...It is located under the cover, on top, on the left front corner area.
It is a Circular, Black & Silver Disc Shaped component about the size of a dime in diameter and is about 1/2" in height.
It has Two (2) Wires attached to it's spade connectors and it acts as a safety fuse.
"IF YOU PUT AN INSULATED JUMPER WIRE ACROSS THE 2 TERMINALS THE POWER SHOULD RETURN AND THE DISPLAY WILL LIGHT"
Anything other than these two items should be checked by an Authorized Service Technician as these microwaves have components thay carry "HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK HAZZARDS"
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