JVM1650SH02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

replaced

I lined up the new grille's tabs on the microwave's
holes, carefully pushed it into place, secured it with the two small screws I had saved and badda bing, badda boom, done and done. Perfect fit, looks great. Couldn't have been easier. Thanks.
GE wanted over a hundred dollars for the same part.

Wow! It really was as easy as everyone says. I ordered the part. It came overnight. I took out the 6 screws on the bottom of the microwave (AFTER unplugging the microwave of course), unscrewed the part and unplugged it, put in the new motor, plugged it in and screwed it in, and replaced the bottom screws. The only trouble I had, which really has nothing to do with this part or the repair, was that some of the screws on the bottom of the microwave were very difficult to replace as they didn't seem to line up with the holes beneath. I had a handyman coming to do some deck repairs and had him put those in. Ah well. I did MOST of it myself.

Stephanie, age 52

Have a microwave that the light and sockets just broke in pieces so I ordered two sockets from this site . The fit perfectly and it was a breeze to install. Took out 7 screws and the plate dropped down, hooked up the little wire which was so simple and bingo I had lite again. I just wished the hold plate came down but it didn't but it was still very easy to install. Will continue to get my appliance parts from this company.

I tried to install the new part several times, but it didn't work. So I used a pencil to move things around down the shaft. After that the new part went in and now my microwave is doing what I need it to do.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

There where five screws to remove to get the bottom off then two to release the motor from the housing pull the electrical supply cord out then reverse the process. Piece of cake.

Took out the door to be able to replace the door latch. After removing the plastic cover it was challenging to remove the broken latch (unlike other models this has two separate latches individually controlled by spring. The pin holding the latch was impossible to take out and I figured I need to take out inner layer of the door frame (metal part) to remove it. But the frame was stuck and did not come out. I found no reference how to do it on internet and then with another pair of hand pulled outwards while simultaneously pulling upward. Was finally about to pull just enough and replace the latch and push the metal frame to fit back.

Removed three screws from the top front cover and slide it out and following I removed the touch panel and the housing that holds the switches and replaced the bad one.

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

Changed the bulbs and it still wouldn't work. Checked voltage coming from board to the lights and did not have 110 volts. Several relays on board that operate the fan and various other components and all those were working properly. Checked voltage leaving board and did not have any voltage. Thought it may be the board. After replacing the board noticed a burn mark on back of board under the relays.

Checked pricing from GE, Sears and Parts Select. Parts select was a lot cheaper price and exact replacement part. Shipping cost was reasonable and quick.

Removed 5 philip head screws from under panel. Under panel droped down exposing drive motor. Removed one drive motor screw, replaced with new motor at the same time lining up new coupler. Pressed together, reinstalled motor srew, attached wire coupling and tested. Worked fine. Reinstalled lower panel screws (5)and unit was ready to go. I ordered two of each units because I believe this to be weak link in the unit. It was only 2 years old, used little as I have another home. I recently installed a like unit (Hanging) and it was a breez. 4 srews properly placed, electrical cord hole properly drilled & ready to go in 45 minutes.

llation

I diagnosed the problem myself. I googled GE parts and was refered to you guys. I ordered the part and it took less than a 5 days to arrive. I used a phillips scewdrive to remove the cover of my microwave and removed the turning glass motor. This took less that 30min and cost less that $50.00. I figured that it would have cost me approx $125.00 to get a tech person to my home for this repair.

Thanks a lot!

Bernard

I turned off the breaker/electric power to the microwave; opened the base of the microwave, detached the wire to the old drive motor, removed the
screws holding the drive motor in place; removed the old drive motor and installed
the new drive motor---beyond easy!!!

Thank you!