SCA2000BBB03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.

We opened the microwave door and essentially with a straight screwdriver worked to "pop" the plastic frame off of the door. We tried to be less aggressive in our efforts and this paid off since we didn't break anything! The area we needed to work on was now exposed to put the new latch in. It took 2 hands rather than 3 to get the new latch attached and then wah-lah, It was done! Microwave works perfectly now. Great alternative to buying a new microwave!

I removed the door, by taking off the grill at the top. Then, take the puddy knife and screw driver and pry the facing off of the door. Please remember to be very careful because this is a sensitive piece. This is the most difficult part. It is a piece of cake after this. This should take about 15 minutes from beginning to end.

We used the scresdriver(flat) to remove the frame inside the door, the remove several screws retaining the inner part of the door thenremoved the broken piece. We replaced the latch with the spring With a little patience, everything went fine. I broke one of the small tab, no big deal.
thanks, you saved me a lot of money/.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

Unplug power source.
Took off plastic panel partially on inside of door with door on its hinge.
Removed latch and spring.
Reinstalled new latch new spring (new part)
Reattached plastic panel to door.
Plug in power.

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Phillips screws out of the side; torx screws out of the bottom/back and slide the cover off of the back. The light is not visible but not hard to find: on the top left side mounted on a black plastic base with 1 phillips screw & stud holds other side. You can tell what the base looks like from the new part. GE probably wants you to call them to make the $-ha. Stay clear of any capacitors (shock) or chips (short) & touch the chassis to ground or if a tech, wear a ground strap.

This is a simple task. Removed the choke cover using a putty knife or small flat screw driver. Putty knife works best. Slide putty knife under the plastic choke cover to lift up over clips all around the door. There are 3 on top and Bottom and 2 on each side. Be very careful or you will break the catch clips that hold the choke cover in place. Lift the door latch up all the way and push towards the outside of the door, then pull the top or bottom out then the rest of it. Unhook the spring end from the door. Attach the new spring to the hook on the door and then to the door latch. Extend it up all the way so the 2 hook parts of the door latch can go back into their slots. Unlike some others said, the microwave door does not need to be removed. If you have someone to hold the door still, that's good enough. I did it by myself with no problem.

It was really easy. I am not a handy person but I followed a video and got it done quite quickly. It saved me a lot of money. The local appliance repair service charges a minimum of $75 just for the visit plus parts.

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

removed micro from cabinet, took off top piece and bottom piece, took off top and side piece to get to bulb. Removed bulb, replaced. Like someone said the engineers at GE should get an award for making an easy job very difficult.

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

removed broken latch connected to existing spring done in less than two minutes works better than new

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK