JES1039BJ02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

unplug oven from power
remove glass turntable
remove cabinet housing
remove burnt out bulb
order correct part
reinstall new bulb
reattach cabinet housing
install glass turntable
plug into power outlet
confirm light bulb on

get microwave out of cabinet. Took two people because it was very heavy. Used special hex drive socekt because of dimple in the female nut.

To remove the outer cover of the microwave you have to unscrew 7 or 8 Phillips screws but most of them have "secure" type heads, so you need a driver with a hole in the middle, to fit over the pin on the screw head. I had one of those already, so it wasn't a problem. The metal cover is slid between rubberized strips on the front face of the enclosure and needs to be lifted and tugged out quite firmly in order to release it. Once the cover was removed, the bulb can be seen attached to the main frame of the microwave by a soft metal lug that can be bent back by hand to release the bulb and its integrated holder. The wiring harness simply pulls off of the bulb prongs and there you have the charred remains of the original bulb! I tried every appliance store and hardware store in Bismarck, but nobody had this part. When I typed in the serial number on the bulb, Partselect's site came up with exactly what I needed. Replacement was a simple reversal of the process, making sure not to over-tighten the sheet metal screws on the cabinet. Voila! We have light beams again. Thanks Partselect.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

removed the outer case - this was the most difficult part because the microwave is large, heavy, and cumbersome.
once the outer case was off, it was simple - easy to see where the old part was and the replacement was an exact match
it was then just a matter of disconnecting the old burned out part and replacing it with the new one
then wrestling the outer cover back into place and re-fitting the screws.
Microwave is fine now and hopefully good for another 10 years!

Unplugged microwave from wall outlet removed the cover with standard phillips #2 screwdriver and tamper proof screw bit driver. For safety shorted across capacitor with insulated needle nose pliers to discharge.
With P2 screwdriver removed 2 latch board screws and rotated latch board to access switches. Even though only the bottom primary interlock switch was mechanically broken, I replaced the upper primary interlock switch also. With a DVM I checked the middle switch which tested good. The old switches can be carefully removed from the latch board by slightly bending the lock tabs and unplugging them, installation is the reverse of removal. I tested the release button and latch mechanism before replacing the cover. I tested the microwave only with the cover on for safety. Parts arrived quickly and easy repair on an 18 year old reliable microwave. A year ago, I replaced the magnetron, capacitor and diode on the same unit which did not heat.

I removed the broken wheel and replaced it with the new one. No tools or assembly needed. Took about 30 seconds. The part arrived in about 2 days.

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Remove the top of the microwave, regular phillips screws on sides, torque screws on back. Lift up back and slide off cover. Light bulb socket is easily detached and bulb unplugged and replaced. Slide cover from back lifted slightly so lip will slide into front of microwave, than replace screws. Be sure to unplug microwave before you start.

I assumed light was burned out and got a replacement bulb.
Removed back and side screws with slight difficulity.
Was not able to remove cover. The top front would not loosen. I tried every trick in my 80 year repertoire. I gave up and put it back together.
I emailed PartSelect last week explaining the problem. So far no reply.
I am sure I have the right model # and others seem to have little trouble removing the cover.
I paid $85 + tax for the oven and it has worked well for about 8(?) years.
From what I read here, I figured I could handle the bulb replacement.
I'm just out the cost of the bulb and shipping and the oven still works. It would have been nice to have the light work again but we will just wait until it quits working and buy another inexpensive unit.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

My wife lifted out the broken part and dropped in the new ring guide. It was a direct replacement part that fit perfectly and now works great. She was also the one to diagnose the problem, research and order the part.