JVM1631BJ02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

Disassembly control panel and remove switch holder; test for micro switches for continuity. Holder had broken post on micro switch holder.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

The hardest part was removing/reinstalling the microwave from under the kitchen cabinets, but once that was accomplished the repair went very easy. The motor/fan assy was easily accessed once the microwave outer cabinet was removed and the part was even better than the original, with a stop on the motor shaft to insure proper reinstalling of the fan blade.

Unscrewed two screws above, replaced grille and screws.

Need a Phillips screwdriver for screws. Screws MUST be removed in order to side the new grille into the brackets.

Placed it in position and screwed two screws in.

. The part arrived in acouple of days and the repair to minutes. Good work Jim.

mtg plate came and the rest was easy,did wiring in upper cabinet 4 microwave,drilled 1 1/8 hole in btm of cab 4 power cord 2 go thru.All this was done by common sence and a tape measure,no templates were with this unit (YARD SALE)GE1600,3 bolt holes 2 hold micro upafter installing on back plate,plugged it in and it worked! end of story.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.