JVM3670CF07 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

After examination - evidently some one had put a larger dish in the microwave and it stopped the glass plate from turning and broke the holder stirrer(small plastic piece that held the glass plate so that it could turn.
When I received the right part I simply made sure that all the prior plastic was out or out of the way and placed the new part onto to the shaft - tested it a few times, made a minor alignment and it has worked fine ever since.
Thanks to your staff for finding the right piece from the description I gave.

Found your site online, ordered parts needed. When parts arrived I just put them into the holes in the microwave and popped on the self. Worked like a charm! Thanks very much!

Odered replacement

used the Dremel Osciilating tool with small blade to quickly cut/remove the old rack holder and then inserted new hold. Took less then 5 minutes total.

The halogen light bulb took a little skill. The prongs were a little difficult to maneuver into place.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

I ordered and replaced the coupler. Once installed, all was well!

I took the part out of the box and handed it to my wife and said "here ya go hun, go put this under the glass turntable in the microwave. You'll know it's installed when you hear it click down" She yelled back, "easy as pie" - - - Humm.. I can't make a pie. Fortunately the old one was in one piece as the side just split so it slid off very easy. The new one just snapped in place.

I placed the glasstop on the sprocket

Removed three screws from the top front cover and slide it out and following I removed the touch panel and the housing that holds the switches and replaced the bad one.

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

llation

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.