JVM1631CJ01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Unfortunately the filter upgrade for my microwave was not a fit. When I tried it in my microwave my microwave did not work. I thought I was going to have to have a repairman come and check what was wrong. I decided to put the original filter back in and when I did my microwave worked fine. Select Parts Has issued me a refund for the purchase I made that did not work. I am at present still researching for a filter that work for my microwave.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

I removed the microwave from the wall and observed where the sound came from, I then removed the part that was held by two screws, then I order the part on Part Select it took three days to receive the part and in 5 minutes I installed it.

When removing a non-working door switch, you will see a hooked piece of plastic on the holder locker that looks like a latch. If you try to pull it back in order to either remove the bad switch or install a good one, it will likely break. Instead, you need to pivot the switch (It pivots on a little post which is fitted into a hole at the corner of the switch) out of position so that it is not held back by the 'latch'. Then lift the switch out. If you have to use lots of force anything, you're doing something wrong. Reverse all this when installing the new switch.

Attached new grill by screwing the 2 screws into place.

Snapped JVright on

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

mtg plate came and the rest was easy,did wiring in upper cabinet 4 microwave,drilled 1 1/8 hole in btm of cab 4 power cord 2 go thru.All this was done by common sence and a tape measure,no templates were with this unit (YARD SALE)GE1600,3 bolt holes 2 hold micro upafter installing on back plate,plugged it in and it worked! end of story.

. The part arrived in acouple of days and the repair to minutes. Good work Jim.

Replace the fuses

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

I pulled out the unit and found 2 interlock switches that are depressed when the door closes. After cycling the door open/closed I found that one of the switches occasionally would stay depressed. The repair was easy (after I took off the panels so I could get to the switch) I simply removed 2 screws that attached the interlock switch assemblies to the main unit. Then I popped out the defective switch and popped in the new one. This did indeed fix my problem.

01. Remove vent cover above door and lift door out of the two hinge pin holes.
02. Lay door face down on towel and insert putty knife between choke cover and frame. Pry gently inward (towards center of door), working all the way around choke cover until it pops out.
03. Remove screws securing door handle to frame and remove door handle.
04. Disconnect main door assembly from frame by gently prying (outward, using putty knife if needed) all clips securing main door assembly to frame.
05. Remove outer glass from frame.
06. Analyze new frame for excess plastic trim (leftover from molding process), especially under and around all slots that will hold outer glass, and remove excess trim with utility knife.
07. Slide outer glass under slots at the top of the frame first. Push glass under slots as far as you can by hand.
08. This is the most difficult step: gently pry (outward, using your fingers) the tabs on the slots at the bottom of the frame until glass slips under these slots. Take your time and work back and forth, slot by slot.
09. Slide glass (using your fingers) under the slots on the right side of the frame. There are also two smaller slots on the left side of the frame (one at the top and one at the bottom). Make sure glass is seated under these slots as well.
10. Turn frame over and check that outer glass is seated against frame (no significant gaps between glass and frame) all the way around.
11. Insert main door assembly into frame and push down (using your fingers) all the way around main door assembly until all clips have engaged, securing main door assembly to frame.
12. Insert door handle into frame and secure door handle with screws.
13. Insert choke cover into frame and push down (using your fingers) all the way around until choke cover is secured in frame.
14. The top of the frame may look bowed upward in the center, indicating that the outer glass may need to be better seated in the frame. To eliminate any bow at the top, place door on its bottom on a carpeted floor and have someone hold door. Place towel on door, place wood block on towel, and gently tap wood block with rubber mallet until bow was been eliminated.
15. The bottom of the frame may look bowed downward in the center, indicating that the outer glass may need to be better seated in the frame. To eliminate any bow at the bottom, place door on its top on a carpeted floor and have someone hold door. Place towel on door, place wood block on towel, and gently tap wood block with rubber mallet until bow was been eliminated.
16. Align the two hinge pins with the two hinge pin holes on the microwave and put door back on.
17. Install vent cover above door.
18. Microwave some popcorn, grab your beverage of choice, and bask in the savings and satisfaction of doing it yourself! I hope this helped.