HDM1853WJ01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions
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- Customer:
- NOSHIR from Sun City Center, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB02X10733
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace spent carbon filter
remove 2 screws from top of grille; remove grille by moving it to the left and then away.
remove old filter by lifting the front edge and then pull out, and replace it wih a new one using the reverse order of the above.
replace grrille and screws.
The repair is a 'no brainer'.
remove old filter by lifting the front edge and then pull out, and replace it wih a new one using the reverse order of the above.
replace grrille and screws.
The repair is a 'no brainer'.
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- Customer:
- Ronie from BRIARWOOD, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10928
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Microwave does not have power at all, though outlet has power
unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......
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- Customer:
- Frank from VIPER, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10928
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Blown fuse in microwave
One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.
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- Customer:
- Clay from Kansas City, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB26X10037
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
A ratteling when the over was running
Unplugged the stirrer motor and the noise stopped. Therefore, replaced the stirrer motor.
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- Customer:
- Ronald from Wood Dale, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB08X10016
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Cooktop light receptacle cracked
Remove screws holding bottom cover. Cover then swings down allowing access to the receptacles. Receptacles have a single screw attaching them to the appliance with a simple electrical plug supplying power. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Clarksville, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB06X10144
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Turntable coupler became brittle and fractured
I simply pulled the old coupler off the moter shaft after removing glass turntable plate. The coupler lifted right out since it was fractured. Luckily all peices came out attached. Typically you would need to remove the bottom access panel on the microwave and remove the turntable motor to install the new coupler. However you can simply snap off the extra plastic piece that is molded to the coupler to allow for an easy push down onto the shaft from the inside of the microwave cooking area where the coupler fits onto the moter. Piece of cake. I don't believe there is any danger in shortcutting this because the weight of the glass plate will hold it in place.
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- Customer:
- Gene from LaPorte, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB49X10063
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Tray was brokenwhen moving
opened the door and put in the tray!
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- Customer:
- Jerry from Pearland, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10003, WB08X10016
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace microwave light and broken base socket
Lower base of the microwave, about 6 screws,
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.
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- Customer:
- Barbara from Fruit Heights, UT
- Parts Used:
- WB06X10144
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Glass turntable stoped turning due to broken coupler
Pulled out broken one with fingers, put on new one with fingers, it did not have anything preventing it from just slipping on. Didn't need to take anything apart to install me part.
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- Customer:
- Dorothy from MADISON, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10213
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Awkward positive to work
Slowly and carefully to protect bulb
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- Customer:
- Sharon from Denham Springs, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB02X10733
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
needed replacing
very easy
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- Customer:
- Maria from Edison, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB06X10144
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
coupler was broken
removed the broken coupler and replaced it with the new one.
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- Customer:
- ROGER from BLUFFTON, SC
- Parts Used:
- WB08X10016
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Loss of lighting for over-stove illumination.
Must remove 5 screws in bottom of Microwave, which is hinged to the unit. Then simply remove the old lamp holders, and replace with replacements. Uses only a single screw for each lamp.
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- Customer:
- Kent from Mesa, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB26X10038
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Turntable no longer went around
I followed the instructions provided by others on-line who had done a similar repair. I removed a handful of screws, disconnected the wires from the old drive motor and connected them to the new drive, replaced the screws that held the drive motor in place, and those that held the bottom housing in place, and I was done. Literally took less than 10 minutes. If I had known earlier how easy it was, the microwave would have been fixed much earlier.
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The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
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