JE1460BF03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.

This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.

One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.

Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.

Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.

All is well and working.

Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.

unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!

Pretty simple but required buying a set of security bits (#68549) from Harbor Freight for $7.00 to remove the outer cover of my GE JES2051SNSS microwave. At first glance I thought the cover would remove by going towards the front of the microwave, but it ended up just needing a tug to the rear. I like this site because they have pictures of the exploded appliances that show what your getting into.

Removed the back plate, removed the old motor and re-attached the new motor and the back plate. Took about 5 minutes. Works great.
Lesson learned - DON'T let your spagetti boil over.

Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill.
My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.

Removed cover discharged the capacitor and looked around for obvious signs of component failure. Then began testing switches and sensors finding flame sensor closed. Did a bypass and all cylinders fired. Part needed no longer available. Located your part with almost exact working values and installed it. Hopefully will get another 12+ years of service. I have used you folks in the past and will in the future. Thanks

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

get microwave out of cabinet. Took two people because it was very heavy. Used special hex drive socekt because of dimple in the female nut.

removed the outer case - this was the most difficult part because the microwave is large, heavy, and cumbersome.
once the outer case was off, it was simple - easy to see where the old part was and the replacement was an exact match
it was then just a matter of disconnecting the old burned out part and replacing it with the new one
then wrestling the outer cover back into place and re-fitting the screws.
Microwave is fine now and hopefully good for another 10 years!

To remove the outer cover of the microwave you have to unscrew 7 or 8 Phillips screws but most of them have "secure" type heads, so you need a driver with a hole in the middle, to fit over the pin on the screw head. I had one of those already, so it wasn't a problem. The metal cover is slid between rubberized strips on the front face of the enclosure and needs to be lifted and tugged out quite firmly in order to release it. Once the cover was removed, the bulb can be seen attached to the main frame of the microwave by a soft metal lug that can be bent back by hand to release the bulb and its integrated holder. The wiring harness simply pulls off of the bulb prongs and there you have the charred remains of the original bulb! I tried every appliance store and hardware store in Bismarck, but nobody had this part. When I typed in the serial number on the bulb, Partselect's site came up with exactly what I needed. Replacement was a simple reversal of the process, making sure not to over-tighten the sheet metal screws on the cabinet. Voila! We have light beams again. Thanks Partselect.

Unplugged microwave from wall outlet removed the cover with standard phillips #2 screwdriver and tamper proof screw bit driver. For safety shorted across capacitor with insulated needle nose pliers to discharge.
With P2 screwdriver removed 2 latch board screws and rotated latch board to access switches. Even though only the bottom primary interlock switch was mechanically broken, I replaced the upper primary interlock switch also. With a DVM I checked the middle switch which tested good. The old switches can be carefully removed from the latch board by slightly bending the lock tabs and unplugging them, installation is the reverse of removal. I tested the release button and latch mechanism before replacing the cover. I tested the microwave only with the cover on for safety. Parts arrived quickly and easy repair on an 18 year old reliable microwave. A year ago, I replaced the magnetron, capacitor and diode on the same unit which did not heat.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK