JVM1440SH03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions
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- Customer:
- TERRELL from OAK POINT, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken light lens for the light bulbs
Took the screw out of the glass door holder, bent the clips up and removed the broken glass. While this was open chenged the light bulbs as well. Put new glass in bent the holding clips down and closed the doors and installed the screws again. So nice to have good light again and also new glass in them. Never noticed they were broken before.
BY THE WAY PARTS SELECT IS VERY PROMPT AND I RECEIVED MY PARTS IN ONE DAY AFTER THEY SHIPPED. SHIPPED ON MONDAY GOT THEM TUESDAY, thanks parts select for your promtness and speedy work for shipment.
BY THE WAY PARTS SELECT IS VERY PROMPT AND I RECEIVED MY PARTS IN ONE DAY AFTER THEY SHIPPED. SHIPPED ON MONDAY GOT THEM TUESDAY, thanks parts select for your promtness and speedy work for shipment.
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Microwave powered up when door was opened
After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.
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- Customer:
- Clay from Kansas City, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB26X10037
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
A ratteling when the over was running
Unplugged the stirrer motor and the noise stopped. Therefore, replaced the stirrer motor.
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- Customer:
- Ronald from Wood Dale, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB08X10016
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Cooktop light receptacle cracked
Remove screws holding bottom cover. Cover then swings down allowing access to the receptacles. Receptacles have a single screw attaching them to the appliance with a simple electrical plug supplying power. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- Frank from VIPER, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10928
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Blown fuse in microwave
One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.
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- Customer:
- Jerry from Pearland, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB36X10003, WB08X10016
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace microwave light and broken base socket
Lower base of the microwave, about 6 screws,
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.
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- Customer:
- Shari from Sarasota, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB15X10022
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door handle broken on microwave.
Fortunately I had my handyman here to repair a leak under my kitchen sink and asked him to replace the handle on my microwave. There were no instructions included with the handle but I had printed out descriptions from the web site of what others had done. He pried off the inside of the door which revealed two screws, which he removed. He then had to pry off another covering which revealed the other two screws that removed the handle. He attached the new handle and put the two parts that were pried off back on. It would not be an easy process for the ordinary householder and it would have been nice if detailed instructions had come with the handle (with pictures showing exactly which areas of the door needed to be removed). I was going to try the repair myself but am extremely glad my handyman was there as I probably would have ruined the microwave and would have had to purchase a new one. Kudos to my handyman.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Olive Branch, MS
- Parts Used:
- WB27X1160, WB27X10240
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
blowing 15 amp fuse when hitting power button
Looked at schematic to see which parts became active when the power button was pushed. From there used meter to determine diode was open and capacitor was shorted. Biggest trouble was dis-assembly/assembly required to get to electrical parts.
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- Customer:
- Johnnie from Dayton, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB06X10420
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Turntable would not turn
Ordered and replaced turntable coupler. Still didn't work.
Ordered turntable motor. Left bottom of microwave open for motor to arrive since the parts are shipped so quickly. Sure nuff parts arrived 3 days later, replaced and walla walla fixed in 10 minutes. Simple, simple.
Ordered turntable motor. Left bottom of microwave open for motor to arrive since the parts are shipped so quickly. Sure nuff parts arrived 3 days later, replaced and walla walla fixed in 10 minutes. Simple, simple.
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- Customer:
- Tommy from West Chester, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB06X10420
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Turntable quit turning
I removed the broken turntable coupling and popped on the new one. Simple as that. It was a 2-minute job.
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- Customer:
- Kent from Mesa, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB26X10038
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Turntable no longer went around
I followed the instructions provided by others on-line who had done a similar repair. I removed a handful of screws, disconnected the wires from the old drive motor and connected them to the new drive, replaced the screws that held the drive motor in place, and those that held the bottom housing in place, and I was done. Literally took less than 10 minutes. If I had known earlier how easy it was, the microwave would have been fixed much earlier.
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- Customer:
- Jerry from Lillian, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10195
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
microwave dead
First, potatoe burned up in microwave. Microwave
was dead. Took off cover and found maintaince repair pamphlet in envelope. Schematic showed one shot thermostat for fire. Ordered thermostat from you and installed it. Works fine.
was dead. Took off cover and found maintaince repair pamphlet in envelope. Schematic showed one shot thermostat for fire. Ordered thermostat from you and installed it. Works fine.
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- Customer:
- ROGER from BLUFFTON, SC
- Parts Used:
- WB08X10016
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Loss of lighting for over-stove illumination.
Must remove 5 screws in bottom of Microwave, which is hinged to the unit. Then simply remove the old lamp holders, and replace with replacements. Uses only a single screw for each lamp.
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- Customer:
- lawrence from huntersville, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB08X10016
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Bulb was stuck in the lamp
First I removed the screws that were underneath the microwave. Once I did that I disconnected the wires to the bulbs and removed the screws that were attached to the holder lamp. replaced the parts and reversed the process. It went really smooth.
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The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
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