JE1860BH03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Removed the old rotating ring guide that was broken on the bottom and replaced with the new part I ordered. Only suggestion is if it doesn't rotate check how you inserted the new part - it has to be a certain way. Works just fine.

After picking up the broken glass and cleaning up the mess, I looked up GE microwave turntable plate and came across this site! Easy to order on their website, good price, and quick delivery.

Just open de microwave door, carefully pull out the old ring and then just put the new one on it. Don't push it down!! Just gently turn it until it falls in place.

Note: the axis of the old rotating ring may break, so be very careful when pulling it out. Do it straight up, to avoid leaving a piece of it next to the electric motor axle.

Unplugged microwave from wall outlet removed the cover with standard phillips #2 screwdriver and tamper proof screw bit driver. For safety shorted across capacitor with insulated needle nose pliers to discharge.
With P2 screwdriver removed 2 latch board screws and rotated latch board to access switches. Even though only the bottom primary interlock switch was mechanically broken, I replaced the upper primary interlock switch also. With a DVM I checked the middle switch which tested good. The old switches can be carefully removed from the latch board by slightly bending the lock tabs and unplugging them, installation is the reverse of removal. I tested the release button and latch mechanism before replacing the cover. I tested the microwave only with the cover on for safety. Parts arrived quickly and easy repair on an 18 year old reliable microwave. A year ago, I replaced the magnetron, capacitor and diode on the same unit which did not heat.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

removed the outer case - this was the most difficult part because the microwave is large, heavy, and cumbersome.
once the outer case was off, it was simple - easy to see where the old part was and the replacement was an exact match
it was then just a matter of disconnecting the old burned out part and replacing it with the new one
then wrestling the outer cover back into place and re-fitting the screws.
Microwave is fine now and hopefully good for another 10 years!

To remove the outer cover of the microwave you have to unscrew 7 or 8 Phillips screws but most of them have "secure" type heads, so you need a driver with a hole in the middle, to fit over the pin on the screw head. I had one of those already, so it wasn't a problem. The metal cover is slid between rubberized strips on the front face of the enclosure and needs to be lifted and tugged out quite firmly in order to release it. Once the cover was removed, the bulb can be seen attached to the main frame of the microwave by a soft metal lug that can be bent back by hand to release the bulb and its integrated holder. The wiring harness simply pulls off of the bulb prongs and there you have the charred remains of the original bulb! I tried every appliance store and hardware store in Bismarck, but nobody had this part. When I typed in the serial number on the bulb, Partselect's site came up with exactly what I needed. Replacement was a simple reversal of the process, making sure not to over-tighten the sheet metal screws on the cabinet. Voila! We have light beams again. Thanks Partselect.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

get microwave out of cabinet. Took two people because it was very heavy. Used special hex drive socekt because of dimple in the female nut.

The plastic part which rotates broke and I was about to call and order another microwave. Much to my surprise, this was so easy to just slip into place. Voila!!!!!!!!! now the glass rotates.

unplug oven from power
remove glass turntable
remove cabinet housing
remove burnt out bulb
order correct part
reinstall new bulb
reattach cabinet housing
install glass turntable
plug into power outlet
confirm light bulb on

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

Replaced the 16" tray with a 14" tray. Works great now. Took about 20 seconds to take out the old tray and put in the new.

Remove tray and rotating ring assembly. Turn the microwave onto the back. Locate the center plate and cut it loose with the side cutters. (Note: there are retaining slots on the opposite side) these slots hold the cover plate in place when reattaching. Use a magnetic phillips head screw driver so you don't drop the cover retaining screw. After cutting loose the cover, unplug the wires from the motor. (Note placement for correct reattachment). Remove 2 screws and remove old motor. Replace motor. Replace the screws and reattach the wires. Replace the cover (rotate so the prongs fit into the slots) tighten screw; you're done!!! I ordered the rotating ring, but I don't need it. Now I have an extra.

It took longer to figure out the part # than it did to fix. I took out the dish, pulled out the old assebly, slid the new one in and I was finished.