CVM517P4R2W2 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I just needed to remove 2 philp screws and insert filter. The filter fit perfectly and perfomred as expected.

This was the second time I've had to open up the microwave. 1st time display would blank out but system would continue to operate. Found solder connections on board to LED display were defective. Resoldered and unit was fine. This time I found the connection to the oven cavity temp cut-off was bad, plastic connection cover melted. When unit operated bottom lead and wire would heat up. Couldn't measure a Discernable distance so either wire or connector connection surface was not sufficient to carry the current. 1st replaced sensor still wire heated up. Replaced connector and there was no sign how heat from resistances.

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

Followed the instructions on your website and a YouTube video. The diode was at a 90 degree angle which made it a little trickier. Unfortunately the repair did not resolve the problem. I ended up buying a new microwave for temporary use for less than ordering any more parts. We are pleased with your website, instructions, ease of installation though!

removed two screws, set in place. done. The best parts was that your ordering and shipping was out of this world. Never thought I would get the Filter that fast. Thanks You made my day.

Looked on line and found a you tube that said to check the door micro switches (there are three of them. Found one of the switches had an actuator that was stuck down. I got the actuator working but problem was still present. Another you tube showed how to repair the contacts in the switch and that solved the problem. however the plastic piece that holds the switches was broken and would not hold the switches securely. Ordered that piece and a new switch. Remove the vent plate on top (one phillips) and the control panel (one phillips). The switch holder is held in place with 2 phillips and is a little tricky to get it out and undo the wires. Once out, it's just a matter of putting the switches into the new holder and reinstalling it. Google the model number and the problem and there's virtually a you tube to repair ANYTHING.

I attached the mounting plate to the wall as directed in the installation instructions which I had downloaded from GE. This procedure took 45 minutes to complete. I was then able to mount the microwave.

Open microwave door and remove plastic cover running across top of the oven box by unscrewing 3 Phillips head screws above and behind plastic cover. (4th screw to the right is not related to this cover). DO NOT PULL COVER STRAIGHT OUT. Cover slides either right or left then pops out. Remove old filter and replace and reinstall cover. Filter lays at a 45 degree angle against metal tabs tilting toward you.

So my microwave was turning on and operating but nothing would get hot or even Luke warm. After watching several online videos on the problem I replaced the line fuse, diode, and the magnetron. I figured why waste time and just do all 3 while I have the thing apart. I discharged the capacitor with a light bulb first before doing anything. Also had to pop the safety pins on the outside screws to take the metal housing off the microwave. Then Wallah! Everything is working and the food or liquid is hotter than it ever was. The only think that bothers me a little bit is that after the microwave shuts off, I can hear a few crackles or faint pops for about 5 seconds. I wonder if this is anything to worry about. Comments appreciated.

Required removing the old unit and disconnecting the exhaust ductwork and drilling new holes for attachment to the cabinet

open microwave door remove 3 screws on top of microwave, slide top panel to the left and pull out top panel slide old filter out put in new one and reassemble

scape melted plastic off of oven wall. apply pliers to melted plastic, pinch plastic, and turn one quarter turn and remove. grab new rack holder with pliers, insert into hole and twist one-quarter turn

Removed unit from above range. (A two person task.) Removed display panel, disconnecting wires from plugins. Removed outer cover to access magnetron. Used camera to take photos before disconnecting other wires. Replaced magnetron and reconnected wires, double checking with photo. Tested prior to reinstalling. It works fine.

My oven is installed above the counter making it a bit difficult to reach the screws closest to the wall. Instructions should note that both harnesses need to be disconnected and that there are two screws, not one holding the motor. This one issue made it frustrating since that screw is located towards the back away from your vision. This is when the flash light and a bit of contortions were required.

This is an above the range microwave, use 2 people to remove it. I set it on a table and removed the outer cabinet. I then used jumper leads to discharge the capacitor. I removed the control panel (taking a picture to ensure proper wiring on assembly), then I removed the latch board. Once I had the latch board out I removed the monitor switch (which is the middle switch) and tested it for continuity. This is a normally closed switch. I tested the other two switches as well and found these (normally open) switches for continuity to be good and the monitor switch to have a short. This switch should show continuity when the door is open and should show no resistance when the door is closed. (Take care removing the switches) After I received the parts I installed them in the new Locker Holder and installed the latch board (ensure to follow the latch board adjustment steps located in the control board). I then attached the wiring to the control board and then plugged in the unit. I tested the unit to ensure it functioned correctly. I then installed the outer cabinet, and then installed the unit above the range (Use 2 people for this process). Overall an easy fix you just need to ensure you follow safety procedures (especially when dealing with capacitors.
Take a lot of pictures of the wiring and of the components and take care with the latch board or you'll have to buy a new one when all you really needed is a monitor switch.