CSB923P3N3D1 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Followed the instructions on your website and a YouTube video. The diode was at a 90 degree angle which made it a little trickier. Unfortunately the repair did not resolve the problem. I ended up buying a new microwave for temporary use for less than ordering any more parts. We are pleased with your website, instructions, ease of installation though!

Symptom: Terrible sparking coming from the right side of the microwave even with nothing in the microwave. The part that was behind the cover was the business end of what I learned was the magnetron,

Repair process: Without appliance repair experience I went onto Google and searched for parts for my model PEB1590DM2WW. I was able to find a great parts schematic on partselect.com. At first I ordered a magnetron and while waiting for the parts to arrive I also learned that the capacitor can also fail easily as described in the other install feedback on the partsselect website. So I ordered a capacitor just in case. These convection microwaves are around $600 new so a $80 in parts is not out of line for 8 years of service.
I installed the magnetron first and turned it on. sparking immediately continued so I quickly shut the unit off. After replacing the capacitor and letting it charge for several minutes before trying to start the microwave cycle was the issue. I choose to leave the replaced magnetron as the original unit was discolored and felt the replacement was inexpensive insurance. I also learned that if the wave guide (which is a plastic/metallic composite material) that covers the opening to the magnetron is burnt or has metal melted to it as mine did it will act similar to the microwave having metal inside the enclosure and will continue to spark and basically melt the wave guide further. Replacing the wave guide was very easy as well.

I am very thankful for the knowledge base and support available from Partselect.com as they made this repair possible on my own. Thank you partselect.com

Microwave with no heat. Removed casing and checked low voltage side from the fuse through all the microswitches to the primary side of the transformer, all good. Checked HV diode good. Checked secondary side of transformer, good. Checked capacitor, good. Even though the Magnatron electrically checked out good, it had a cracked magnet. Replaced the magnatron and we have heat again!

It is easy to repair the burnt out bulb if one has the correct bulb. Your website is very user friendly and your service is great. I was not able to replace the bulb at this time because our RV is at the repair shop for some other matters. I am sure the installation of the new bulb will go smoothly. Thanks for asking. Sharry Kiehl

I removed the main cover ( torx security bit required) and tested the magnetron, capacitor, diode and door interlock switches according to instructions found on the internet. The capacitor and diode tested good but the magnetron looked burnt and corroded on the tip. The magnetron I received was an exact replacement for the original. It was easy to replace the magnetron which arrived in 2 days standard shipping. I also cleaned the fan while I had access to the inside area. Hoping to get another 18 years use from the microwave!

Very easy to replace. This replacement part is the perfect fit for my microwave since the original part has been discontinued. It does have the night light and bright light feature.

So my microwave was turning on and operating but nothing would get hot or even Luke warm. After watching several online videos on the problem I replaced the line fuse, diode, and the magnetron. I figured why waste time and just do all 3 while I have the thing apart. I discharged the capacitor with a light bulb first before doing anything. Also had to pop the safety pins on the outside screws to take the metal housing off the microwave. Then Wallah! Everything is working and the food or liquid is hotter than it ever was. The only think that bothers me a little bit is that after the microwave shuts off, I can hear a few crackles or faint pops for about 5 seconds. I wonder if this is anything to worry about. Comments appreciated.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.

Googled problem, removed diode, checked with meter and it was open, ordered new diode, checked new diode and it read open, installed. Any way, it didn't work. Went and bought new microwave!!

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

Followed instructions that came with bulb I ordered and could not have been easier. Will use this site again.

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.