JVM1540DM1BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Took off plastic around inside the door , took broken latch off and put spring on new latch on plactic on and it works . ????

So my microwave was turning on and operating but nothing would get hot or even Luke warm. After watching several online videos on the problem I replaced the line fuse, diode, and the magnetron. I figured why waste time and just do all 3 while I have the thing apart. I discharged the capacitor with a light bulb first before doing anything. Also had to pop the safety pins on the outside screws to take the metal housing off the microwave. Then Wallah! Everything is working and the food or liquid is hotter than it ever was. The only think that bothers me a little bit is that after the microwave shuts off, I can hear a few crackles or faint pops for about 5 seconds. I wonder if this is anything to worry about. Comments appreciated.

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

Required removing the old unit and disconnecting the exhaust ductwork and drilling new holes for attachment to the cabinet

Check with Digital meter all connections.Find a Thermostat open loop.This thermostat is near the Megatron .

The tray came within 5 days and I simply took it out of its well-packaged box and slipped it into my microwave. It is working just like new. I can't thank you all for being so punctual and reliable. better than having to buy a brand new microwave.

Open the microwave door. On the outer edge the is a 1 inch thick black mold that goes around the entire door. Pry that back with a flat head screwdriver where the handle is and you will see the 2 phillip screws are exposed, top and bottom. Remove them..

I had already removed the old grease filters. Unwrapped the new grease filters and popped into place. No tools were necessary.

Simply popped the turntable shaft in. It was installed by hand, no tools required.

Fairly easy to repair. The hardest part for me was trying to get the lip under the frame so it will snap in.
I could only replace the left screw because the right didn’t align properly. The grill fits tightly so I’m not worried about the one side.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Another company said the new plate would arrive in mid-March, this company seemed to be faster so ordered the tray here, and it came in less than a week. I put the turn button back in the center hole, set the wheeled ring on the bottom of the oven, fitted the new glass tray onto the turn button.

Placed the new tray into the oven.

Used Google to locate parts dealers for GE.
Ordered from Partselect.

Part arrived a few days later and I easily put it in.

I thought the cost of this part was out of line but all others sold it for about the same.

Popped off the control panel. Unscrewed and disconnected the circuit board. Reconnected and screwed in the new panel and popped it back on.