CVM517P4M2W2 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Can't believe GE Profile allows such a flimsy filter to be used at all. These filters should not just fall apart while running water through them.

I ordered replacement 4 replacements because I'm sure this will happen again. Part Select fortunately had replacements! You just slide the new filter in place, no tools required. Thanks Part Select.

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .

Replace the burned-out bulb with the new purchased bulb

Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...

Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.

I replaced old tray with new. Received replacement part in two days. I was surprised at the quick response time. The part ordered was right the first time.

I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!

UNPLUG MIRCOWAVE.REMOVE THE HARDWARE, COVERS, AND DECONNECT THE CONTROL PANEL. REMOVE AND REPLACE VENT THERMOSTAT. REINSTALL EVERTHING IN REVERS ORDER. WORK FINE NOW. ADVISE IF YOUR FIRST TIME GET INSTRUCTIONS ON INTERNET SEARCH OR YOU TUBE

While cooking squash for 20 min the microwave quit. No lights, nothing. Initially, I looked at fuses and tested thermostats whille leaving the unit in place over oven and removing control panel. One thermostat one base under fan showed no continuity so I replaced it just to find it was normally open so the problem remained, no power. After looking at schematic I saw the negation thermostat on the top of the megatron which would require removing the unit from the wall and disabling the unit cover , removing the vent duct. Immediately, I knew that had to be the problem since there was nothing more difficult to reach. Sure enough, after disassembling the unit, removing everything removable, I tested it and it was dead! No continuity! After replacing, everything works fine. Other than being a pain in the *** , it was pretty easy. Just a ton of screws to remove everything very obvious. The frustration is that there are two fuses, and two other thermostats right up front that would have been easy to replace but nooo. Can’t be those :-).

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

It took less then 10 minutes to order. Received new part with 3 days

I took the cover off, and replaced the glass-- the difficult part, was ordering the glass..on the list of parts to order-- the description of the glass was mis-leading

First I replaced the cracked cooking tray and I was done.

GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figured number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.