PSA9240SP1SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Replaced all 3 switches and Holder for all 3 switches. All is working great now.

The first holder locker was shipped in a soft envelope and was damaged in shipping. I ordered a second holder locker with instructions to ship in a hard container and mentioned what happened to the first holder locker. The second holder locker was shipped also in a soft envelope and was received damaged.

I notified customer service and have yet to receive a response.

I now have the part on order with a local company.
Kenneth Files
(831) 688-0740

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

PER YOUR INSTRUCTION

Multimeter checked/confirmed switches, sensors, and fuse first. All good. High power diode was bad - Replaced. Still no heat but now loud "MMMMM" noise when running. This means either the capacitor is also bad and/or magnetron.

Followed instructions that came with bulb I ordered and could not have been easier. Will use this site again.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

Part arrived next day! Thank you Parts Select. Holder bracket on older GE microwave was broken so MW would not start because door latch did not activate door switch. Removed front panel unplugged all the wiring (after I had taken a picture) to gain access to the holder bracket. Unplugged the three door switches. Removed two screws that held the holder bracket. Installed three new door switches into the new holder bracket. Positioned the bracket behind the frame and screwed back in the two screws. Snapped in this seven wire attachments, set the control panel back in the microwave and secured it with two screws. I only needed one screwdriver and one needle nose plier to remove the wire attachment from a door switch which made it easier to remove. 40 minutes.

When removing a non-working door switch, you will see a hooked piece of plastic on the holder locker that looks like a latch. If you try to pull it back in order to either remove the bad switch or install a good one, it will likely break. Instead, you need to pivot the switch (It pivots on a little post which is fitted into a hole at the corner of the switch) out of position so that it is not held back by the 'latch'. Then lift the switch out. If you have to use lots of force anything, you're doing something wrong. Reverse all this when installing the new switch.

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

Part Select sent the wrong part I did not realize it until prong broke off one of the bulbs. They sent 130v instead of 120v. Return bulbs awaiting resolution.

Checked all sensors with a multi-meter, found the thermostat to be the problem, no continuity.