ZSA1201J4SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Turned of f the circuit breaker to the microwave. Unscrewed the cover (1 screw!) popped out the old bulbs and plugged in the new ones, using the bubblewrap as a handle to be sure my skin didn't touch the light bulbs so the oil from my hands didn't damage or shorten the life of the new bulbs. Turned the circuit back on. That's it!

Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!

First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reconnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.

This is the second time that this lamp hase gone out. It is located in a small space in the top of the microwave and you need to remove the top front pannel, then take a screw or two out of a metal shield and bend the shield up to get your hand into the compartment where, if you know how, you can reach in and lift out the reflector shield that the lighbulb is plugged into and remove the old one and plug in the new one. The first time was hard to figure out how to do it but the second time wasn't bad because I knew how to do it.

*Remove Two Phillips head screws from the top of vent slide the vent left to remove it. Take the charcoal filter out then the metal cover underneath the filter. It also has a phillips head screw. bulb socket is on right facing down. Squeeze the metal clips and remove socket from bracket. Installation is the reverse of removal.

After removing the screws holding the 2 cover plates in position, I removed the halogen light bulbs with my fingers. Then I placed a paper towel around the first replacement bulb and lined up the two wire connectors with the two holes in the receptacle. I pushed in, but the bulb's probes did not slide into the receptacle. I spent five minutes aligning and pushing but to no avail. Then I removed the filter screen on the side of the receptacle, shined a flashlight beam on the receptacle, and with an improved view of the two holes in the receptacle, slid the bulb in. The second bulb was inserted in a few minutes, and the job was done. Whoever designed the halogen bulb was not as bright as Thomas Edison.

After picking up glass from one end of the trailer to the other, this thing must have exploded because we are still finding glass!
1.) Open microwave door
2.) Insert Glass Tray
3.) Close microwave door

Now if it was that easy to replace the ground off fiberglass on my end cap!

I unplugged it, removed the outer shell with torque bits and a screwdriver, drained the main capacitor, and began debugging the circuit with my fluke multimeter, found the bad primary interlock, googled the part number, ordered the part, received it in 2 days, replaced the interlock in about 2 minutes, and put the cover back on. Fixed. Saved me about $200 over buying a new unit and was grateful for partselect's great service.

-Keith Packard

First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.

I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector off the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.

After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!

Unscrewed the top, take out old filer and replace.

Had to remove microwave from the wall. Then disassemble entire top assembly to get to the part. Easy enough to replace after that. Then just reassemble and reinstall. About 2hrs. total

Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.

Remove microwave and set on flat surface. Remove all screws on top. Remove all screws around back edge holding top on. Finally remove the screws on botton holding top on and remove top. On left side on top, remove 6 screws holding black channel in place. Also remove 3 screws holding metal top in place. Now lift black channel up and unplug 2 wires on cutout. Replace cutout and reinstall everything in reverse order. Worst part is taking microwave down and reinstalling.

just slipped the filter in place.

The spacesaver is mounted over the stovetop. I removed the oven, then removed all the screws from the cover. Removed the cover and located the TCO and removed the wiring and the TCO. Ordered the part VIA internet and replaced it . It helps a little that I was Radar tec. and taught Electronics for 10 years and repaired lots of Microwaves. However anyone could do it just watch what you remove and replace in reverse order.