JVM6172DK3BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figured number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

removed screw that holds glass for light and replaced bulb.
Reinserted screw that holds glass.

Only down side was cost to ship small bulb.

Just unscrewed the screw holding the cover in place, removed the broken glass wearing gloves and then removed both of the burned out lights. Replaced the bulbs while wearing gloves to avoid the commone problem of contaminating the halogen bulbs during installation which can shorten their life. Replaced glass into cover bent back short tabs to hold the glass in place and closed the cover. Reattached cover with screw and it was done 15 minutes tops

Replace charcoal filter. The other filter which is metal, I washed it in mild soapy water.

I first read the previously posted directions from other customers that were sent with my part order confirmation, which were all very helpful. Then, I basically used a screw driver to unscrew the screw holding the lens cover in place - be careful as it is a very tiny screw and it can easily fall behind your oven. You might want to place a large piece of cardboard over the space between oven and wall, as I did, so that you don't lose the screw in case it falls. Next I pried open the prongs, carefully slid out the cracked lens, and slid the new lens in place, pushed back the prongs and put the screw back in. I found that it was easier to use my fingers to first place and tighten the screw because it is very small and will keep falling out of place if you try to just use the screwdriver. Good luck!

ordered 2 new sockets and bulbs easy replacement great service from this site

Turned the power to the unit off. Removed seven- (7) small screws from the base plate, not removing the rear screws. The plate dropped a few inches allowing me to get to the light socket. I removed one- (1) screw that allowed the socket to be removed. I then detached the two- (2) electrical leads. I now installed the new socket, replacing the leads and the screw along with a new bulb. I pushed the bottom plate back into the up position and replaced the seven- (7) screws. Turned the power back on and we were good to go.

.Thank You Dan

Removed the light cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Removed the lamps from the packaging just enough to free up the 2 prongs for fitting in the socket. Make sure the power is in the "off position". Install the bulbs one at a time by lining up the 2 sockets (Very important not to touch the halogen bulb glass surface while installing them). Energize the light switch to check operation of the new bulbs.

Have a microwave that the light and sockets just broke in pieces so I ordered two sockets from this site . The fit perfectly and it was a breeze to install. Took out 7 screws and the plate dropped down, hooked up the little wire which was so simple and bingo I had lite again. I just wished the hold plate came down but it didn't but it was still very easy to install. Will continue to get my appliance parts from this company.