JVM7195SK3SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN

replace tray

I ended up breaking one bulb trying to remove a burnt bulb for replacement. We then tried removing the other bulb and it wouldn't come out either. I googled the problem and found PartSelect and an explaination of the problem. Heat from either the stove or the bulbs had fused the bulbs into the sockets. Comments on the problem explained that you just remove the bottome pannel (we had seven screws), unplug the old sockets, insert the new and new bulbs and reattach the panel. It was quick and no problems to correct. We did discover the microwave was on its own breaker, make sure to disconnect or cutoff power to the microwave before you start.

After removing the screws holding the 2 cover plates in position, I removed the halogen light bulbs with my fingers. Then I placed a paper towel around the first replacement bulb and lined up the two wire connectors with the two holes in the receptacle. I pushed in, but the bulb's probes did not slide into the receptacle. I spent five minutes aligning and pushing but to no avail. Then I removed the filter screen on the side of the receptacle, shined a flashlight beam on the receptacle, and with an improved view of the two holes in the receptacle, slid the bulb in. The second bulb was inserted in a few minutes, and the job was done. Whoever designed the halogen bulb was not as bright as Thomas Edison.

This was a super easy repair job. I couldn't figure out how the lens that covered the light bulb would have cracked and realized it must have been from my contractor when he replaced my stove. I can't prove it, of course, so I am left doing the repairs. The website was very easy to order from and confirm that I had the correct parts as the model numbers tend to change over time.

Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Open the box.. unwraped excessive bubble wrap.. placed in microwave.. Did'nt even break a sweat..

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

I unscrewed the entire undersurface of the microwave (I didn't do this before!) and replaced the light socket. Easy job and I'm glad the part was still available.

Rather than open access door took off bottom (5 screws) This gave more room as the microwave is mounted under the wall cabinets over the stove.

I was told by 2 different appliance technicians that the crumbled/melted light socket could not be replaced which meant replacing the entire microwave (expensive!). Other posters on your sight described the repair steps and I gave it a try. The hardest part was probably figuring out which switch in the fuse box belonged to it (now marked clearly). It was a simple matter of unscrewing the bottom panel of the microwave to access the socket, pulling the crumbled/melted unit off and shoving the new one on. I can't believe the repairmen didn't want any part of even giving it a try.

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

I removed the unit from the wall removed the top two screws holding the panel above the door I the two screws holding the control panel removed the three switchs I found the top one to be blown and replaced it