CVM517P2M1S1 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

Looked at schematic to see which parts became active when the power button was pushed. From there used meter to determine diode was open and capacitor was shorted. Biggest trouble was dis-assembly/assembly required to get to electrical parts.

Removed 6 screws from the front and back of the bottom of the unit. 3 screws each side. The panel will swing down. Remove the wires from the motor. Remove the one screw from the old
motor. Insert the new motor and reverse the procedure.
DIY will save you a $ 95.00 GE repairman labor bill, plus the cost of the motor. I repaired the problem for less than $25.00!

the online instructions were ideal - just unscrewed the right-hand screw (the only screw) and replaced the bulb by inserting gently but firmly)...getting the old bulb out was a pain, b/c it shattered in my grasp (with little bits of glass all over the stove!), but that has nothing to do with the purchase and installation from this site - all a very good experience

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Removed one screw, removed cover, and replaced lamp. Pretty straightforward.

Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .

Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.

UNPLUG MIRCOWAVE.REMOVE THE HARDWARE, COVERS, AND DECONNECT THE CONTROL PANEL. REMOVE AND REPLACE VENT THERMOSTAT. REINSTALL EVERTHING IN REVERS ORDER. WORK FINE NOW. ADVISE IF YOUR FIRST TIME GET INSTRUCTIONS ON INTERNET SEARCH OR YOU TUBE

While cooking squash for 20 min the microwave quit. No lights, nothing. Initially, I looked at fuses and tested thermostats whille leaving the unit in place over oven and removing control panel. One thermostat one base under fan showed no continuity so I replaced it just to find it was normally open so the problem remained, no power. After looking at schematic I saw the negation thermostat on the top of the megatron which would require removing the unit from the wall and disabling the unit cover , removing the vent duct. Immediately, I knew that had to be the problem since there was nothing more difficult to reach. Sure enough, after disassembling the unit, removing everything removable, I tested it and it was dead! No continuity! After replacing, everything works fine. Other than being a pain in the *** , it was pretty easy. Just a ton of screws to remove everything very obvious. The frustration is that there are two fuses, and two other thermostats right up front that would have been easy to replace but nooo. Can’t be those :-).

Ordered the part. 2 days later part arrives. Took me 30 seconds to install the part. Sorry it was not more eventful.

We had our kitchen remodeled; new cabinets, countertop, range, refigerator, microwave, dishwasher and floor.

The cabinets around the microwave were custom made; it looks great but it hid the screws, which had to be unscrewed to remove the grill so the interior light of the microwave could be replaced.

A stand was used to support the microwave as I lowered it so the screws could exposed so the light could be replaced.

The light was replaced, the microwave was raised back into place and all is well. I replaced the bulb while my wife was out of town. When she returned she noticed that the microwave was nice and clean; she was NOT aware of the fact that the bulb was replaced!

Bob
Racine, WI

Opened cover, pulled out old bulb, inserted new one, put cover back on. I was out of town when bulbs arived, my wife put it in. She said it was easy.

I replaced old tray with new. Received replacement part in two days. I was surprised at the quick response time. The part ordered was right the first time.