JVM2070C General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Just unscrewed the screw holding the cover in place, removed the broken glass wearing gloves and then removed both of the burned out lights. Replaced the bulbs while wearing gloves to avoid the commone problem of contaminating the halogen bulbs during installation which can shorten their life. Replaced glass into cover bent back short tabs to hold the glass in place and closed the cover. Reattached cover with screw and it was done 15 minutes tops

Odered replacement

Removed the light cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Removed the lamps from the packaging just enough to free up the 2 prongs for fitting in the socket. Make sure the power is in the "off position". Install the bulbs one at a time by lining up the 2 sockets (Very important not to touch the halogen bulb glass surface while installing them). Energize the light switch to check operation of the new bulbs.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

Using a phillips screwdriver I opened the panel in which the two lamps are located and easily removed the lamps. I ordered them through the internet and was pleasantly surprised when I received them the next day.

unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.

I placed the glasstop on the sprocket

llation

however, I had hit the cook button and the microwave did not have an item to cook inside. Resulted in shattering the glass tray and meting the plastic lid sitting inside which was fused to the cooking tray. Carefully wrapped up the shattered tray and melted lid in heavy paper, deposited it into the garbage, then happily placed my new E.O.M. glass cooking tray into my G.E. Profile microwave. Thank you .

This repair was easy and could be done by anyone. If you undertake to do this replacement, remember to slowly bend the medal tabs back that hold the lens. Handled roughly these tabs could break off.

This repair can be don in under 5 minutes, easily !!

remove two screws bend out flaps remove broken glass install new glas bend flaps back to hold glass install two screws. Done.

Removed the control panel, one screw at the top. Removed 2 screws on the door switch holder and removed the door switch. VERY EASY.