JVM1870W General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

I removed a few (6) screws and disengaged the motor. Removed the parts and installed in reverse order. Replaced the screws. Easy

Cleaning up the grease from cooking for years on the stovetop below took WAY longer. But the repair was simple!!

I removed 4 screw from the under carriage of the microwave then, removed the 2 screws from the motor, replaced the motor and replaced the screws. It was so easy it took only 4 minutes to perform, better than replacing the whole unit (microwave) and less expensive too. i only wish it was made in the US, I wouldn't mind to spend a little more.

Found your site online, ordered parts needed. When parts arrived I just put them into the holes in the microwave and popped on the self. Worked like a charm! Thanks very much!

GE microwave displayed the message that Charcoil Filter needs to be changed. I disconnected the unit and removed the top two screws then removed the top panel by sliding it gently to the left. Replaced the filter. And positioned it in the same way the old filter was installed. Replaced the top panel and screws, Connected the unit back and used the Menu option to reset the Charcoil Filter warning option.

used the Dremel Osciilating tool with small blade to quickly cut/remove the old rack holder and then inserted new hold. Took less then 5 minutes total.

Odered replacement

Just unscrewed the screw holding the cover in place, removed the broken glass wearing gloves and then removed both of the burned out lights. Replaced the bulbs while wearing gloves to avoid the commone problem of contaminating the halogen bulbs during installation which can shorten their life. Replaced glass into cover bent back short tabs to hold the glass in place and closed the cover. Reattached cover with screw and it was done 15 minutes tops

removed screw that holds glass for light and replaced bulb.
Reinserted screw that holds glass.

Only down side was cost to ship small bulb.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Small sized phillips screw driver was required. Once gaining access to the new motor the part(s) replacement was simple.

There where five screws to remove to get the bottom off then two to release the motor from the housing pull the electrical supply cord out then reverse the process. Piece of cake.