SCA2000BCC03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

M/W mounted in wall so the hardest part was dismounting it and remounting it. That involved removing the frame, removing the top and bottom brackets, unplugging the unit and sliding it out. The repair was just removing about 10 sheet metal screws that held the metal case on and then unplugging the wires to the lamp and removing one screw that held the lamp in. That whole process in reverse puts it all back together.

Now the lamp works great when the M/W is in use or when the door is open. However, since it was a "Me" operation, I now have another problem. When the M/W is in use it is really quiet like maybe there is a fan not working. And after a medium to long use, the whole thing blacks out and cannot be used again until it all cools down. Once the display comes back on, you have to reset the clock and it's ready to go for the next usage.

I guess I either unhooked something or shorted something when I had the case open. Obviously I'll be taking it apart again soon.

First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!

unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......

Disassembled the front cover, found slow blow fuses, then replaced with microwave fuses 250V-20Amp. Utilized a few fuses to pin point the problem, Microwave functions all worked except the express feature, made an assumption after using a tester that it was the high voltage capacitor and the diode that attaches. Replaced both, plugged in and tested. Worked! reinstalled the unit. Sucessfull for the past month.

Traced problem to the door primary interlock microswitch.By the way this is the second time this switch has failed. Switch appears to fail after about 3 years. Replacing the lamp was bear.I have the SCA2000BCC03 advantium. It is almost impossible to replace the interior light. After removing from wall remove the case and the control panel disconnecting all of the wires. Gentley pull cavity outward giving you enough room to get an offset philips screwdriver on the single screw retaining the lamp. Its a bear but its possible to do and probably saves you $150 service charge. GE must have assembled the bulb unit before placing it into the unit. There is no simple way to replace the bulb. Maybe new units have easier access. My is 12 years old.

I needed to remove the front fascia plate and remove the microwave from the cabinet. Then I had to remove the microwave cover. This entailed some difficulty because GE used special screw heads to discourage people from fixing their own appliances. Then, I had to find the bulb fixture and that also was difficult and not obvious.

This was easier than I had expected. Many of the instructions involved removing the door. I decided to skip this when I found a Youtube video showing that the latch replacement required little disassembly. Here are my steps #1 Open door completely and, if needed, have someone steady it. #2 Using a thin plastic putty knife, gently pry off the plastic fascia from the inside of the door. Try to break as few of the plastic retaining tabs as possible (my total was about 10). #3 Slide the old latch upward and outward towards the outside edge of the door with your putty knife. #4 Remove the old latch and spring. #5 Attach the new spring to the latch and hook it to the retainer on the door. #6 Lift the new latch into place, it will drop into the slots with no or little persuasion. #7 reinstall fascia. #8 "nuke" last night's pizza ;)

Unscrewed the vent at top of microwave exposing small access to bulb. The access to this was very limited so that was the major issue in changing the bulb. You needed small hands to do the job.

Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill.
My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

The GE appliance technician replaced the magnetron, HV capacitor, and diode without luck but only charged me the service call, not for the rest. He however told me the only item left would be the HV transformer. Having watched the nearly 2 hour teardown and rebuild for the parts, it gave me the knowledge needed to attempt the HV Transformer. Having received the transformer, I tore into the micro removing the old TF. To my dismay, the old TF tested good (per advice from the internet checking the prim and sec resistance values... they also came close to the new TF. So I elected to dig out the schematic and troubleshooting flowchart hidden inside my micro. All things led back to a door switch which checked bad... part which I didn't have. Reassembled micro, ordered switch from Parts Select and installed in about 1/2 hour. Micro work great now. Only if the GE tech would have followed the flow-chart! I ended up returning the HV Transformer since it wasn't used and not needed. Had to absorb shipping costs.

I read your instructions sent with the new latch. Looked at a couple videos online and it was VERY easy to change the part. Thanks so much?

Removed back screws, pulled cabinet off from the rear, unplugged lamp on upper right side in front reattached two wires, replaced 1 screw to hold lamp in place, reinstalled cabinet and done.

Actually followed prior instructions on your site. Spot on.

Watched Utube instructions on how to do it to it and just did it.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door