SCA2000BCC03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

I have a GE Advantium/micorwave oven. It is the model that has the hinges on the side, NOT the bottom. First, removing the door is necessary. The grill has to be removed first, then the door lifts right out. Next the plastic backing on the door has to be very carfully taken off to expose where the new latch has to be placed. Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to go around the permiter releasing the internal, unseen, plastic catches that hold it on. This should be done carefully, to avoid breaking the catches that you can't see. After the plastic is mostly removed putting in the spring is not too difficult, but a second set of hands is almost manditory.

Remove shroud . Two black philips head screws on side, and several on the back side. The two bottom screws on the back are special screws that a philips,straight slot, or hex screwdriver will not remove. I took a dremel tool with a thin metal grinding disc and created a straight slot through the centr of the two bottom screws. This allowed their removal with a straight slot screwdriver. Slide the cover straight back and off. The bulb is located on the top of the microwave connected with one screw. Replaced the bulb. It has two prongs that fit into the holder. Replace screw. Slide cover back on. It slides into retaining splines on 3 sides. Replace screws, and you're in business.

Easy as pie!
1. Remove the 2 outer screws holding the top vent in place and remove the vent (it helps to have the door open)
2. Lift the door up, pull the top of the door away from the hinge and then list it up a little more to clear the bottom hinge.
3. Lay the door on the counter and with a putty knife, work your way around the perimeter of the door between the door and the inside bezel. The bezel is held in place with little tabs spaced evenly around the perimeter.
4. Once the bezel is off, the catch assembly is accessible. List it up against the spring pressure, and push it towards the outside of the door to release it from the frame.
5. Reverse procedure to install.

The old fuse is perfectly good. The new ones arrived within a day.

Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!

First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reconnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.

1. turned off electricity -- unplugged the unit 2. removed 3 screws on top of top vent, removed vent screen then I located the little white cylindrical fuse and popped it out with a table knife. Then I popped in the new fuse. Replaced the vent screen and screws -- plugged in the appliance and it is working again.

The cabinet must be removed. Lamp is not accessable from inside the oven. They tried to make it difficult by putting two Torx screws in the back. All the others are Phillips head.

Remove the cabinet screws then slide the cabinet off toward the back of the unit. Lamp is on the upper left looking at the unit from the back. The oval lamp base is secured by one Phillips screw. The connector was slightly difficult to remove from the lamp base but it came loose by spreading the plastic connector with a small screwdriver. Needlenose pliers would probably work.

Install the new lamp, replace the cabinet and it's done.

Safety TORX driver removed screw. Ceramic cover removed with ease. Shaft pulled straight up and out. Broken piece not retreivable and left in base of oven. New shaft inserted over "D" stub. Ceramic cover replaced and screw tightened.

When the ceramic cover is removed, this allows the glass cover for the UV heating unit to be removed, cleaned, replaced. I recommend doing this.

I unplugged it, removed the outer shell with torque bits and a screwdriver, drained the main capacitor, and began debugging the circuit with my fluke multimeter, found the bad primary interlock, googled the part number, ordered the part, received it in 2 days, replaced the interlock in about 2 minutes, and put the cover back on. Fixed. Saved me about $200 over buying a new unit and was grateful for partselect's great service.

-Keith Packard

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

GE Profile Microwave Oven model JE1590. This microwave does not have an easy to replace bulb location and requires this custom bulb replacement part. The microwave cover must be removed to access the bulb replacement location. There are two black phillips screws on the right side of the microwave which must be removed and an additional 5 silver screws on the back. 2 of these screws are philips and 3 are tamper resistant torx, size TR20. If you do not have a TR20 you can either purchase an inexpensive bit set (recommended) or modify the screw heads with a Dremel (type) tool to allow them to be removed with a flat head screw driver. Once all the screws are removed, the oven cover will slide back and lift off. The bulb is located on the top, front, right side of microwave. There is a single philips head screw (pointing down) holding the bulb assembly in place. Remove the screw and the assembly lifts up. Gently slide the bulb connectors aways from the wires and replace with the new bulb. I recommend you wait to remove the old bulb until you have the replacement so you can see how the replacement will fit.

First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.

I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector off the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.

After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!

Had to remove microwave from the wall. Then disassemble entire top assembly to get to the part. Easy enough to replace after that. Then just reassemble and reinstall. About 2hrs. total