JES1290S General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Understand the type of fasteners GE used in the appliance require a BRISTOL type screwdrive.....unfortunatley this tool is not a part of my tool chest.....after running my four letter vocabulary and the use of thin blade screwdrive a a small vise grip plier was able to get the little bugers out.....thank goodness there was only four.

on the kitchen counter. Removed parts and replaced exactly as the came off. insuring all fits were tight and secure.

It took two people because we have built-in unit. The power plug was in cabinet above.First had to remove front frame in cabinet with Phillips screwdriver. Removed microwave from cabinet box (be sure to wear gloves, edges are very sharp). Then unscrew outer shell of microwave - easy process. Easy task to remove bulb/socket piece. We ordered part from Part Select - friendly service and the price is the best. Even with minimal shipping costs, the local prices were more than double. Important, it is a bulb and socket part.

Light bulb repair was super easy once I got the out shell of the microwave off. The unanticipated problem was that I didn't realize the outer shell was secured with unusual "Security Torx" screws I have a couple star screw drivers but these were very unusual and could not find a proper screwdriver to remove them. I was able to force them lose with a small philips screwdriver and a pair of channel lock pliers. It took me quite a while to get the screws off this way but once I got them out and the outer shell off the microwave the light bulb replacement took less than 10 minutes. You should market the appropriate screwdriver to remove the outer microwave shell with any interior replacement parts.

Our microwave oven stopped working one day when the door was closed. The clock stopped showing, the light didn't come on when the door was opened, and the microwave couldn't be started. It acted as if it lost power. So, we did the usual things such as check the plug and the circuit; these were fine. I then removed the cover (need special bits called "Security Bits" which you can buy from Home Depot for $8.00). After removing the cover, be sure to discharge the capacitor (do a Google search to learn how to do this; fortunately, this microwave has a resistive circuit to ground to discharge the capacitor after about 30 minutes of being unplugged). After I discharged the capacitor, I checked the fuse and it was blown. So, I went to the store to buy a new fuse. When I replaced the fuse, and plugged the unit back into an outlet, the circuit blew as soon as I opened the door. This made me realize the faulty components were the "interlock" switches. These are relays (an electric switch) that cause the microwave to shut off when the door is opened and the inside lamp to illuminate when the door is opened. There are two "primary" switches and a "monitor" switch. I checked both primary switches for continuity (do a google switch for "checking interlock switch"). The one interlock switch was bad, meaning, it wasn't opening when it was suppose to. I ordered a replacement and also replaced the Monitor switch too (not sure why, I guess because it was only $6 to buy). After replacing the bad primary interlock switch, I put it all back together and we're working now!